It’s been a while since we’ve spotted a nail trend that we consider truly noteworthy. Over the winter, we stuck to classic shades, like burgundy, chocolate brown and pillarbox red, but, as we start to embrace all that spring has to offer, something a little more playful has caught our eye: watercolour nails.
This sheer, subtle hint of colour look with a high-shine finish is the clean girl’s take on a colourful manicure. If you’re looking to introduce a little more colour into your palette this season, watercolour nails allow you to do it in a subtle, pared-back way.
We sat down with Session Manicurist, Ami Streets, to find out how to get the look.
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What are watercolour nails?
The key to this look is a diffused wash of colour. “The finish is really sheer and glossy, with colour that fades and blends out like watercolour paint; nothing harsh, nothing blocky,” she explains. She says it isn’t a far cry from previous nail trends—jelly, syrup and glass nails—but watercolour nails are more fluid artistic, “with tones that gently merge into each other.” Much like the traditional clean girl manicure, this fresh and translucent approach keeps to the ‘your nails, but better’ feel and looks effortlessly expensive.
What to ask for in the nail salon
“Keep it really visual with inspo images when explaining this to a nail tech,” says Streets. “You can ask for a sheer, watercolour effect with no block opaque colours.” She says that it can help to ask for syrup gels, jelly gels or polish. Another top tip is that some salons offer airbrushing blending, which offers a much softer finish.
“The main thing to emphasise is that you still want to see your natural nail through it which is what keeps it looking elevated and expensive rather than overdone.”
Is this a look that can be achieved at home?
Thankfully, yes. Streets says that to recreate this look at home, you need to start with a really clean base, because you can’t hide anything with this look. “Go in with a sheer base colour like a milky pink, nude, or even clear,” she recommends. “From there, take one or two sheer shades and float the colour gently with the brush. The key is to keep the layers really thin and build slowly so you maintain that see-through, diffused effect.” Finish with a really glossy top coat to create that glassy, almost wet-look finish.
Streets’ top tip if you don’t have any sheer, jelly-like polishes is to mix a drop of your chosen colour into a clear polish.
Which shades work best for watercolour nails?
You’ll notice that the most commonly used colours are soft and muted. “Luxury neutrals like sheer pinks, milky whites and peachy nudes always work beautifully for a more elevated, minimal look,” Streets says. However, if you want to try something a little more colourful then she says brighter tones like cherry, watermelon, soft coral, lilac and even sheer blue work well too, to give that juicy, glassy finish without feeling heavy.
Does this look work on all nail lengths and shapes?
Streets says that this is a really versatile look that works on all nail lengths and shapes, but that the overall effect will inevitably look a little different depending on your preferences. “On short nails, it looks really clean, minimal and very ‘it girl off-duty'”, she adds. “Almond or oval shapes enhance that soft, fluid effect the most and tend to be the most flattering for this style. On longer or more square shapes, it reads a bit more editorial and statement. Because the technique is so sheer and adaptable, it can be done on anything from short natural nails to long extensions without losing the effect.”
Watercolour nails tool kit
Essie
Jelly Gloss Polish Boho Rodeo Collection in Barn Boheme
Manucurist
Active Glow Cranberry
Essie
Glass Nails Crystal Ball, Milky Nude Nail Polish Sheer Finish
Mylee
Gel Nail Polish in Xoxo
OPI
Infinite Shine Long-Wear Gel-Like Sheer Pink Nail Polish in Bubble Bath
Mylee
Gel Nail Polish in Flix N Chill
OPI
Mirror Shine Top Coat