This is the collagen-boosting cream that helps smooth my fine lines

What is collagen?

“As one of the most abundant proteins in our bodies, collagen provides the building blocks for our muscles, bones, skin, organs, intestinal lining, and connective tissues,” says Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon in San Diego. “Our bodies produce less collagen as we age, which is why we experience joint pain, wrinkles, and skin laxity as we get older.” On top of this steady decline of our natural collagen, free radicals produced by sun exposure and pollution can also do a number on the collagen in skin.

Do collagen creams work?

According to the dermatologists we spoke with, collagen creams work, but you should have realistic expectations. “Topical collagen itself is too large to penetrate the skin deeply, so it won’t rebuild your natural collagen. However, collagen creams can hydrate, plump the surface, soften fine lines, and strengthen the skin barrier. The true magic comes when they also include peptides, antioxidants, or retinoids, which help support collagen production indirectly,” says Dr. Mitchell.

What’s better—retinol or collagen?

One ingredient is not necessarily better than the other, rather they target different things, according to Dr. Rambhia. “If the goal is actual collagen stimulation and long-term anti-ageing, retinol is the better-supported ingredient,” she says. Retinoids have decades of evidence demonstrating their ability to regulate collagen production, improve fine lines, and enhance texture. “Collagen creams, meanwhile, offer hydration and short-term plumping but do not significantly change deeper dermal structure. That said, you don’t need to choose one or the other. Many people can benefit from using retinol at night and a peptide-rich, collagen-supporting moisturiser during the day for complementary benefits,” she says.

Is there a downside to using collagen skin care?

“The only downside of collagen creams is expectation,” says Dr. Mitchell. While many people assume the products will rebuild collagen in the skin, they should temper those hopes to expect more temporary effects. “Also, richer collagen creams may feel heavy for acne-prone or oily skin, so choose lighter textures if you’re breakout-prone,” she says.

Is collagen good for anti-ageing and mature skin?

Collagen creams are great for anti-ageing routines. “Mature and aging skin needs hydration, barrier repair, and plumping—and collagen creams do all three,” says Dr. Mitchell. For significant discolouration, loss of volume, and deep wrinkles, Dr. Rambhia recommends combining collagen cream with retinoids, daily sun protection (of SPF 30) and in-office procedures like lasers or injectables from a board-certified dermatologist for best results.

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