On a recent visit to my childhood bedroom—that has remained largely untouched at my strongly-worded request—I couldn’t help but laugh when I spotted a large advert taped to my wall that reads: “When the going gets tough, the tough go shopping”. A tell-tale early sign of my destined career as a fashion editor, perhaps—and a maxim I’ve lived by for the majority of my adult life, whether consciously or not.
There’s no denying the joy that hitting the shops can bring in trying times. Yes, it’s a fleeting pleasure, an innately capitalist concept, and far from a sensible solution to life’s many difficulties, but it’s also the oldest trick in the book for a reason; an instant dopamine hit for when things feel bleak. And when said “treat yo’self” moment(s) arise, it’s always the more bold and outré items that tend to catch the eye, and provide some much-needed escape.
“In challenging times, people often seek comfort, control, and emotional uplift through personal expression,” explains cognitive psychologist and author of The Psychology of Fashion, Dr Carolyn Mair. “According to mood-congruency theory, we naturally gravitate towards stimuli that influence our emotional state. Bright colours and playful fashion help counteract negativity and evoke optimism, joy and resilience—not only for the wearer, but also those they encounter.”
(Image credit: Getty Images)
It’s little wonder, then, that right now, in a world that feels increasingly dark, scary and chaotic, feel-good fashion is firmly on the rise. Where once the minimalist, low-key, neutrals-dominated aesthetic was considered the height of style, there’s been a notable shift of late towards bold colours, jazzy patterns, playful accessories and pieces that are unashamedly, fabulously OTT.
Think Labubus, diamanté-covered shoes, kitsch bag charms, leopard-print everything, mega jewellery stacks, big bubble hems, and novelty handbags that can take the form of everything from baguettes, tomatoes or a tin of olives, to a pigeon. And perhaps most surprising of all, it’s the high-end brands that are at the forefront of the trend.
The likes of Jacquemus, Moschino, Loewe and Marc Jacobs have been major players in making fashion fun again thanks to their joy-sparking, outlandish and often tongue-in-cheek collections and campaigns—and in turn they have helped bring “dopamine dressing” to a whole new audience. No longer is the age-old concept of wearing mood-boosting, joyful clothes reserved to your neighbourhood eccentric who solely wears head-to-toe neon green… Now, the world’s chicest women are filling their wardrobes with items that err more on the side of exuberant maximalism than the effortless, nondescript quiet luxury style that might have traditionally been considered “cool”.
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“Consumers are spending more emotionally, choosing items that bring joy, comfort, and a sense of identity,” explains Dr Mair. “They’re investing in standout, personality-driven pieces with lasting emotional resonance… Playful, light-hearted designs that reflect the growing desire for expression over status, mood over material.” The fact that on Net-A-Porter, customer searches for bag charms and gingham dresses have increased by 1,000% and 217% respectively in the past month alone illustrates this perfectly.
Even the houses known for their more classical, restrained aesthetics have been embracing dopamine-driven design. Just last week, Michael Rider’s Celine debut featured more pops of primary colour and maximal moments than had hitherto ever been seen at the brand, and styled models in huge stacks of chunky pendant-embellished jewels, gobstopper rings on each finger, and hung charms everywhere from bags to belts. He even brought back the famously minimalist Phoebe Philo’s signature Phantom bag, updated with a zip that resembles a smile. Talk about happy-making, quite literally.
(Image credit: courtesy celine)
That the typically high-brow world of fine jewellery has also entered a newly playful era is incredibly telling, too. Ultra-luxury jewellers like Jessica McCormack, Marla Aaron and Anabela Chan have all recently released fruit-themed collections, that see humble produce exquisitely rendered in bright gemstones, precious stones and fine metals—much to their (inevitably extremely wealthy) customers’ delight.
As Chan explains: “In troubling times around the world, people embrace uplifting and mood-boosting designs/creations that bring positivity, beauty and happiness to their daily lives. Jewellery is empowering, and it can bring immense joy and confidence to its wearer. [These pieces allow] every day to be a celebration—we are no longer saving our best jewels for special occasions.”
Of course, there are also the luxury labels that have been all about feel-good fashion from day dot. Anya Hindmarch is a prime example, known and loved for her artful accessories that are always imbued with a strong sense of fun—be it in the form of embroidered googly eyes, a giant yellow smiley-face, or her decidedly heart-warming recent drop of sea creature bags and charms.
“I am very aware that we are not saving the world, but we are trying to make people feel something,” says Hindmarch. “If carrying a sequin Pez mini bucket bag or animating your kitchen with an eyes teapot brings a smile, then that is a job well done for me.”
(Image credit: courtesy anya hindmarch)
This idea is also central to the success of Alémais, an Australian resortwear brand that was founded at the height of COVID lockdown, with the idea of “bringing a little magic and joy to the world”. Its patterned pieces, often created in collaboration with artists and artisans, have been year-round best-sellers on Net-A-Porter and other high-end retailers practically ever since.
“Our customers often tell us how wearing Alémais lifts their mood or sparks conversation—that it brings a sense of joy, confidence, and even escapism into their day,” explains founder Lesleigh Jermanus. “In a world that can feel quite heavy, self-expression through colour and creativity is so important—women want to feel confident and empowered. I might be biased, but I believe colour is good for the soul.”
From left: Alémais AW25, Farm Rio High Summer 2025, Alémais AW25
(Image credit: courtesy alemais and farm rio)
She’s not alone in thinking this: indeed, there is a large body of scientific research supporting the idea that colour—and pattern—can positively impact mood and emotion. It’s reassuring to know that sartorially at least, joy is well within our control—even if just for a brief, surface-level moment.
The important thing is to think about dopamine dressing as something you do for you, rather than simply another trend to follow. It can take many forms because above all, it’s about the triumph of individual style and having fun with fashion rather than fearing it—dressing not to impress others, but for your own personal pleasure. That’s what will make you feel best of all.
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“I often turn to clothing to lift my spirits, whether that be dressing up rather than keeping it casual, adding heels, or, often in my case, reaching for something red,” says Kay Barron, Net-A-Porter’s Fashion Director. “It makes me feel empowered but also protected. Finding joy in what we wear is always incredibly important, as adding positivity to getting dressed is literally one of the only things that we can control in our days. Brands that elevate this trend include Alaïa with its sculptural silhouettes and harem pants, ruffles and polka dots from Valentino that exude youth and optimism, and Chloé’s tiered dresses and jelly sandals which give effortless feminine elegance.”
Barron’s biggest tip for making dopamine dressing work for you in 2025? “Tap into your love of colour and shades that allow you to express your personality without overpowering you.” In a similar vein, stylist Corina Gaffey suggests “embracing contrasts, choosing joy-inducing pieces, and mixing the polished with the playful for a more grown-up take.” Look to brands like Roksanda, Ashish, Christopher John Rogers, Stine Goya and Cecile Bahnsen, and the Copenhagen Fashion Week street style set for inspiration.
(Image credit: courtesy moschino)
As for me, I continue to shop when the going gets tough, but now I’m reaching for more vibrant colours, patterns, statement designs and sparkles than ever before in a concerted effort to ditch my “don’t look at me” all-black-everything style crutch once and for all. Missoni, Pucci, Alémais and Farm Rio have become fast favourites (albeit in moderation), while Reformation is a go-to for more laid-back everyday pieces that still spark joy.
I’m light years out of my comfort zone, but the mood-boosting effects have been almost immediate—plus, it’s endlessly more fun getting dressed in the morning, and the uptick in compliments from friends and strangers alike haven’t been bad for my confidence, either. Dopamine dressing might not solve all my problems or save the world, but embracing its hopeful, positive, joy-led attitude certainly feels like a step in the right direction.