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The annual Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva gives timepiece lovers a sparkling insight into the boldest and brightest new launches of the season (and for many months to come) from an international roster of the very finest watchmakers.
This year’s edition certainly didn’t disappoint, with a record 60 brands showcasing hundreds of new watches of every conceivable kind – from sleek and simple ‘time only’ pieces, to spectacular bejewelled watches, via the world’s thinnest tourbillon (Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra, just 1.85mm thick) and the most complicated wristwatch ever created (the Vacheron Constantin Solaria, which boasts 41 different functions). There truly was something for everyone.
Here is my rundown of the top 10 new timepieces of the season…
THE TOP 10 NEW TIMEPIECES OF SEASON
The Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu
Hermès is adding an extra helping of its horological savoir-faire to its successful ‘Cut’ design, which it launched during last year’s Watches and Wonders event. 2025 sees the introduction of Hermès’ award-winning ‘suspended time’ function – a novel button on the side of the watch case which, when pushed, brings the hour and minute hands together at noon, pausing time for as long as its wearer wishes. When released, the hands go back to their regular positions and continue to tell the correct time – no matter how long the ‘stolen moment’ has lasted.
The Cartier Tank à Guichets
Inspired by the design of a watch that first appeared at Cartier in 1928, the new Tank à Guichets is the perfect Art Deco revival piece, marrying form and function with exceptional style. Much like the original, the Guichets doesn’t have a normal watch ‘face’ – instead two small windows on its front reveal the time, with hours at the top left-hand aperture and minutes at the bottom right-hand aperture.
The Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas
Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Cadenas timepiece was first introduced in 1935, making it one of the oldest watch designs at the Maison. The design of its unusual-looking silhouette is derived from a padlock and (rumour has it) was inspired by the American socialite, Wallis Simpson, who later became the Duchess of Windsor. This year’s glittering iteration takes the form of a fully loaded jewellery watch, bedecked in snow-set diamonds and rows of princess-cut sapphires.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
No watch has generated more buzz this season than Rolex’s new Land-Dweller – a watch ever-so-subtly leaked by Rolex ambassador Roger Federer on Instagram, ahead of its official release on April 1st. Taking its cue from reworked vintage Oyster model, the Land-Dweller boasts a new metal bracelet and a finely detailed dial showcasing a new honeycomb motif. Years in the making, there are currently 32 patent applications pertaining to the Land-Dweller, including 16 for its movement – a self-winding calibre 7135 that was developed to maximise its efficiency and precision, so it is able to measure time to one tenth of a second.
The Chanel J12 Bleu Caliber 12.2
More beautiful ceramic comes courtesy of Chanel, which has unveiled a deep matte blue edition of its signature J12 watch. Inspired by the dark blue hues pioneered by Gabrielle Chanel – who subverted the traditionally ‘masculine’ colour from the sport of yachting and used it in her feminine designs in the early 20th century – this sporty new number is equipped with baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers is water resistant down to 200 metres (in case you can’t ignore the siren call of la mer).
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
A watchmaker synonymous with high-octane motorsports (the brand is the official timekeeper of Formula 1), TAG Heuer has taken its racing inspiration to the next level with the introduction of its latest collection.
Nine colourful new models take their cue from an original 1980s design, with a more wearable 38mm, upgraded detailing and a cutting-edge solar-powered movement – just two minutes’ exposure to direct sunlight is enough to power the watch for an entire day. Fully charged, each of these covetable new wristwatches can run for up to 10 months, without any light exposure at all.
Renowned for its glamorous, gem set timepieces, the house of Piaget has harked back to its heyday in the Swinging Sixties, when a jet set crowd including Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor and Andy Warhol sported its watches. The new ‘Sixtie’ boasts a unique trapezium-shaped watch case, with chiselled gadroons that echo a piece made famous by Warhol himself. Available with a silvered dial (great for daytime) or in diamond-embellished and ornamental stone versions (which look beautiful stacked with your own jewellery for evening), this is a modern icon in the making.
The Hublot Big Bang One Click
Hublot has released an array of timepieces to celebrate the 20th anniversary of its emblematic Big Bang model in colourful style. Amongst the most eye-catching of these is the Big Bang One Click, a pair of vivid ceramic models boasting super-wearable 33mm cases – the first time the brand has used ceramic in this size. Available in a deep petrol blue or fresh mint green shade with coordinating rubber straps (easily swappable, thanks to a unique ‘click in’ system) and a sprinkling of diamonds around the bezel, these are sporty yet elegant pieces that will look great on everyone.
The Jaeger Le-Coultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds
Launched in 1931, Jaeger Le-Coultre’s innovative Reverso watch changed the face of sporting watches forever. Created to withstand the impacts endured by polo players, the watch featured a clever swivelling case that protected its fragile glass during matches. Now, as a tribute to this ingenuity, the brand has introduced a sleek new version for 2025 with two distinct watch faces – one on each side of the reversible case – allowing you to keep pace in two time zones at once. Its geometric lines, deep black and blue hues and applied indexes all recall the Art Deco styling of the 1930s original, too.
The Chopard Happy Sport 33mm
Crafted in ethically-sourced white gold and adorned with diamonds, the latest update of Chopard’s classic Happy Sport wristwatch is a thing of beauty. The slender 33mm case features a sparkling aventurine glass dial, which provides the perfect backdrop to the Happy Sport’s signature free-wheeling diamonds that spin around whenever you move your wrist.
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