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“Where is the beauty?” Fashion’s Digest’s fashion director Lily Russo-Bah asked me last week as we sat through shows of muted colour palettes, strobe lights and screeching soundtracks. The answer, it seems, lies with Jonathan Anderson, as Dior kicks off the start of Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 26.
Set in the Jardin des Tuileries—originally commissioned by Queen Catherine de Medici in 1564, later redesigned by Louis XIV, and famed for its habit décent dress code (clothing deemed appropriate to one’s social rank)—the setting offered a telling glimpse of what was to come. Add to that Louis XIV’s well-documented interest in being seen, as noted in the show notes, and it’s little surprise that a combination of Baroque beauty, extravagance and femininity swept down the catwalk.
As Simon Longland, director of buying for fashion at Harrods, puts it: “The collection struck a delicate balance—romantic yet modern, soft yet assured. There was a clarity in the silhouettes and a confidence in the restraint. Nothing felt forced; everything felt considered. It is at this point that a designer moves beyond introduction and begins to define a legacy within a house.” And with that comes a number of unexpected trends.
(Image credit: Getty Images/Future)
It’s easy to see Anderson’s inspiration in Louis XIV and the Palace of Versailles in these extravagant pieces of exaggeratedly layered tulle. Tutus emerge as a hero piece of the collection, styled with blazers, jackets and yet more frills.
Classic checks
(Image credit: Getty Images/Future)
We saw check prints crop up across Anderson’s debut Dior Spring/Summer 26 catwalk, so it’s little surprise to see them return here. This time, however, they come with more bite, and in far greater number. Note, too, the bow detailing on several of the jackets, which appears to be emerging as a new Anderson-era Dior house code.
Pretty peplums
(Image credit: Getty Images/Future)
You may have invested in a peplum blazer (or two) back in 2010, but it may be time to do so again, as Anderson makes a strong case for the striking silhouette. Paired with jeans, skirts, dresses and balloon trousers, he proves the pretty peplum can extend far beyond our old favourite skinny-jean styling.
Jazzy jeans
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Sequins, beads and studs have been cropping up on denim for some time now, and Autumn/Winter 26 sees them return once again. Instead of the classic straight-line stripe design, however, Anderson has introduced a softer, more feminine flair. We imagine the high street will soon follow with plenty of variations on the style.
Adorable accessories
(Image credit: Launchmetrics)
The novelty bag is back, thanks to Anderson, with sequinned peanuts and an adorable green frog making appearances on the runway—and let’s not overlook the lily pad shoes. Always one to bring a lighthearted take to fashion (remember the JW Anderson pigeon bag?), we’re excited to see the creative director inject his signature sense of humour into the historic house.
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