These tests include X-ray diffraction, Polarised Light Microscopy and Transmission Electron Microscopy, which all check for the presence of asbestos fibres. It’s a three-fold vetting process that should fill you with confidence your cosmetics are of the purest form.
Supply chains to ensure quality, and mining and manufacturing processes are also investigated regularly by the UKCR. Ergo, you can feel safe in the knowledge that the make-up you buy in the UK has been put through its paces.
Anna Blazhuk
In America, they also use cosmetic grade talc in their products, but it’s worth flagging that where 1372 ingredients are banned in Europe, there are only 10 banned in the US. So it’s fair to say regulation is not as stringent and you may want to think twice before shipping certain makeup products from the US. If the brands are available in the UK, they will be subject to UK regulations.
It’s also worth remembering that skin’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier. “So it doesn’t soak makeup into your blood stream,” explains Cigdem, adding: “There are many layers to skin and cosmetics are created to sit on your skin.”
Cancer Research UK also says there is no science linking cosmetics to cancer but does acknowledge some studies that suggest a possible increase in ovarian cancer risk in women who use talcum powder.
The bottom line
There is no denying that there’s a definite nerviness around talc, but within the industry it’s still largely considered an acceptable ingredient, although some brands have erred on the side of caution. In 2020 Chanel, Revlon and L’Oréal announced they would be removing talc from some, but not all of their products.
Meanwhile, the FDA (US Food and Drug Administration) has admitted that there is the possibility of talc being contaminated with a recognised carcinogenic. As recently as 2020, a study found that 14% of talc-containing makeup products also contained asbestos, although more recent tests last year, which looked at 25 samples, found no contamination. Which could explain why, regardless of the earlier findings, they haven’t legally restricted or banned it.
“Unfortunately, due to the bad press on talc, brands will shy away from using it but it is possible to guarantee ingredients are safe, and have all the necessary documentation that shows the purity, quality and traceability of its mining,” says Anne Onwusowulu, cosmetic chemist and co-founder of the Skin & Hair Manufacturing Hub. “A good number of manufacturers have also obtained COSMOS/Ecocert accreditation for their talc.”
Like all of these things, it’s a case of transparency and trust between consumer and brand. However, with more and more brands using viable alternatives such as silica, zinc oxide, kaolin clay, arrowroot, and rice powder, alongside the continued court cases calling for a ban on the ingredient, it could propel the removal of talc from our products sooner rather than later. Watch this space.