It has been seriously chilly in the UK over the past couple of months. Most of us are aware of the concept of winter skincare, i.e. potentially needing more nourishment in your skincare routine in response to the harsh and drying effects of the cold weather. But, in my experience, I find that my hair and scalp suffer just as much as the skin on my face.
And it’s not just the outdoor weather that takes its toll; the sudden changes from the cold outdoors to our nice, centrally heated homes also put a strain on the hair. All this sounds a bit doom and gloom, but it needn’t be, because learning how to protect your hair from the cold is pretty straightforward with a bit of expert insight. Here’s how to look after your hair in the cold and keep it looking tip-top, according to three different hair experts. But first…
What happens to our hair when it’s cold?
“In cold weather, our hair can lose moisture, becoming dry and brittle,” says Dr Sharon Belmo, consultant dermatologist and hair loss expert. “This, in combination with the hair constantly rubbing on scarves, hats and coats can cause more tangling and breakage. Indoor heating also strips the hair of moisture which can also lead to dullness and less shine. Like the skin on the rest of our body, our scalps can also become drier, flakier and itchy.”
“There are a lot of external factors that can cause hair to become drier in the winter; we tend to forget that central heating can have a big impact,” says Anabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley. “Dry hair tends to be more porous. It will absorb moisture quickly and lose it quickly, too, whereas healthy hair will retain moisture making it elastic – dry hair becomes brittle and breaks. Telltale signs of dry hair are frizz, lack of shine, tangles, crisp straw-like texture and breakage.”
“Afro-textured hair is more prone to the effects of cold weather as it is naturally already drier and more fragile than other hair types due to the curly nature,” Dr Belmo adds. “The twists and curls of Afro-textured hair also make it prone to knots and breakage. The cold weather and friction from hats and scarves further exacerbate this. Those with Afro-textured hair therefore must be even more vigilant with washing and conditioning/deep conditioning every 7–10 days.”
No matter your hair texture, it’s smart to take both a protective and replenishing stance with your hair to counter the effects of winter—here’s what our experts recommend on that front.
How to protect your hair from the cold, according to experts
Be careful with your clothes
Most of us are well-versed in the effects of using heated tools, like the best straighteners, on our hair. But day-to-day mechanical damage and even friction from our clothes also puts a strain on our strands.
“A really big thing is to do with the protection of the hair rubbing against things, but also being mindful that the wind can actually be as damaging as the sun,” says Hairdresser Zoë Irwin, creative director at John Frieda Salons. “When the wind is blowing, it will blow the cuticles ‘up’ the wrong way. This means that the hair is more sensitive to the elements.” The change from a cold and windy environment then adds to your hair cuticles being “roughed up”. As Irwin puts it: “When you go inside, perhaps the heating is [turned up], and straight after being in the wind when the hair cuticles are lifted, it’s more likely to lose moisture.”
As well as applying protective products (more on those later), wearing protective accessories is a great way to mitigate hits. “This winter, I’ve really come down on not leaving [the house] without a hat,” says Irwin. “The heat you lose through the top of your head is massive, so why not use that as protection against the wind?” Wearing your hair up, if it’s longer, and under a hat will help to shield it—some brands even offer satin-lined hats to keep the friction on your strands to a minimum.
Only Curls Satin Lined Beanie Hat with Pom Pom
Up daily moisturisation
Just as you probably find your skin likes additional nourishment in winter, the same is true of our hair, which loses moisture more readily. “Moisturise your hair strands daily with a leave-in conditioner spray or lotion,” advises Dr. Belmo. “You may wish to layer this with a thicker cream or oil to help seal in the moisture.”
“If you don’t want to wear a hat or if your hair is shorter, one of the tricks I like is to take an oil and then mix it with [a cream or serum],” Irwin tells me, demonstrating with the Olaplex No.6 Bond Smoother. “Blend the two together and seal the hair before you go outside. Don’t just do it from the top, take your fingers, split the hair and apply it to different sections. If you think about hand cream and how that acts as a barrier, you essentially need to do the same with your hair.”
Sol de Janeiro Joia Milky Leave-In Conditioner
Olaplex No.5 Leave-In Conditioner
Use masks or deep condition regularly
A regular moisturising treatment is a key part of a good haircare routine and one that definitely shouldn’t be skipped during the colder months. “Deep conditioning is extremely beneficial for the hair, especially during winter,” says Dr Belmo. “Adding a heat cap is even more beneficial as it opens hair cuticles and allows the conditioner to penetrate deeper. Aim for a once weekly deep conditioning with heat.” Irwin also stresses the importance of moisturising hair masks, highlighting their detangling benefits: “The wind creates tangles, so it’s much better if your hair is less tangly in the first place.”
“Hair steaming is another way of increasing moisture levels in the hair and is very beneficial,” Dr. Belmo adds. “This can be done at home or in the salon. It’s also a bit of self-care during these cold dark winter days and is great for the scalp.”
Cécred Moisturising Deep Conditioner
Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask
Prioritise scalp care
Of course, it’s not just the actual strands of our hair that take a hit in winter. “Cold weather, blustery winds, central heating and stress can all aggravate our scalps,” says Kingsley. “Our scalp is home to our hair follicles, so its overall condition is highly important to healthy hair growth. Flaking of the scalp can cause hair loss, and also impact the quality of hairs we’re producing.” Kingsley suggests a weekly exfoliating scalp mask to revive the scalp, as well as a nighttime balancing serum.
“Dandruff and a flaky scalp are more common in winter and it’s important to treat it as soon as possible as it can increase hair fall,” she continues. “So it becomes even more important to look after your scalp. If you are struggling with an itchy or flaky scalp, I recommend using a targeted antimicrobial shampoo, like our Flaky/Itchy Scalp Shampoo, as well as a daily soothing scalp toner.”
“Dry or inflammatory scalp conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or seborrhoeic dermatitis can worsen during the winter, becoming more irritated and flakier,” says Dr Belmo. “Make sure you see a GP or dermatologist who adequately manages your scalp condition.”
Philip Kingsley Flaky/Itchy Scalp Toner
Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub
Wear your hair up
Keeping your hair tied up while outdoors will also provide a degree of protection from the elements. Something like a really loose plait, or even two, which you can put under a scarf. If you braid loosely from [around the chin length], you can almost create a ‘bob’ effect. Then when you take out the braid, you get the softest kink, which is more like a tonged movement.
For Afro hair specifically, “Protective styles such as braids, wigs or twists can be great during the winter, but only if the hair underneath is cared for,” Dr Belmo stresses. “This means ensuring the ends are adequately trimmed before installing the style, the hair is still washed and moisturised (daily) for the duration of the style, and the style is not left in for extended periods of time. Generally, no more than four to six weeks.”
“If the hair is not protected while in a ‘protective style’, the effects can be disastrous and result in weakened, brittle dry hair that breaks and sheds, especially during the colder months,” she continues. “Care must also be taken with the hair extensions used, as non-human hair types may also cause friction and breakage.”
Keep on top of your haircuts
Any hairdresser will tell you that keeping on top of those trims is one of the golden rules to healthy hair. But it’s not just about removing the appearance of split ends—leaving these damaged ends in place can be detrimental to your hair’s health. “It is a known fact that hair becomes drier and frizzier in the colder months, which therefore increases the chance of breakage,” says Kingsley. “Hair breakage can lead to split ends, which if not looked after can really damage hair health, as they can split further up the hair shaft, causing even more damage. So, don’t forget to schedule that hair salon appointment to get regular trims and avoid split ends for healthier-looking hair.”