It’s a tall task getting anyone excited about a Monday night, but Gucci Londra (aka Gucci Cruise 2025) rose to the challenge with aplomb. Armed with a killer front row and seriously impressive location, the stage was set for Sabato De Sarno’s second collection for the house. Whilst we’re still dissecting the spring/summer 2024 trends, the cruise collections offer a rare glimpse into what the future holds in store for our wardrobes. Here’s what you need to know…
THE VENUE
‘I owe a lot to [London], it has welcomed and listened to me,’ says Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s Creative Director, on his decision to bring the house’s Cruise 2025 show to the city. ‘The same is true for Gucci, whose founder was inspired by his experience there.’
Founder Guccio Gucci loved The Savoy, but for this show, De Sarno chose the Tate Modern, a public space that connects different people with culture and, according to the creative director, offered ‘the perfect cross-section to narrate the city’s essence’.
The outside was brought in, with a panorama of greenery juxtaposing the Tate’s famous concrete tanks. It mirrored the duality celebrated in the collection.
(Image credit: Gucci)
THE LOOKS
The show was rich in dichotomies: restraint and extravagance, deliberate delicacy, and as the house described it, ‘Englishness with an Italian accent.’ Traditionally austere garments, such as tailored coats, were offset with chiffons, ruffles and lace, making these frothy things daytime-appropriate.
There were nods to British sub-cultures from across the decades – for example, a Teddy Boy-esque jacket, which was juxtaposed by ladylike pearls. Meanwhile, suede micro shorts and a matching, thigh-skimming cape wouldn’t have been out of place on Carnaby Street in the 1960s, but were kept from feeling costumey with the addition of an acid-green, pussy-bow blouse.
The show closed with a series of sorbet-coloured, plissé gowns, some topped off with outsized, leather bomber jackets in co-ordinating hues. Heaven.
(Image credit: Gucci)
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THE DETAILS
The pearl necklace has enjoyed a renaissance of late, but no jewellery box is truly complete without one of Gucci’s new-season iterations. A doubled string of pearls was held in place with a lobster clasp, while another choker was formed of sliced-up versions of the ladylike gemstone.
As for bags, the Blondie—a style first introduced in the early 1970s—is back, in a variety of colours, sizes and fabrics, from leather to toile.
When traversing the city, it’s flats or nothing, and Gucci more than delivered with square-toe ballet pumps, horsebit creepers and the obligatory loafers, some of which were fitted with a platform sole.
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THE FRONT ROW
Gucci never fails to pull an impressive crowd, and Cruise 2025 was no exception. Attendees included Kate and Lila Moss, Paul Mescal, Lil Simz, Dua Lipa, Salma Hayek and Debbie Harry.
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