You know the fragrances we associate with older relatives or days gone by? Well, these vintage scents are now trending, and it couldn’t come a moment too soon. Despite our grandmothers and mothers wearing them in the past, they are just as relevant today.
Often icons of their days, these perfumes made feminist and political statements. They sparked new genres, fought the status quo, and when women wore them, they’d be empowered. This power is just as prevalent today. We too can feel the same as our mums and grandmothers.
These are some of my favourite vintage fragrances that smell totally right for today.
1. Chanel No.5 Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: Chanel)
The way that Chanel No.5 has remained current and cool ever since its inception is no surprise to me. It was the first ever fragrance to be made by a fashion house, and when it came out in 1923, it made a huge statement by moving away from the simplistic floral scents that women were wearing and instead allowing them to wear a more complex, abstract yet liberating statement of a scent. The magic of Chanel No.5 lies in the fizzy bubble of aldehydes that blend so beautifully with citrus, jasmine, rose de mai and a deeper ambery musk at the base. I expect Chanel No.5 to be as relevant in 100 years as it was in 1923. It’s the Queen of the vintage scents.
2. Guerlain Mitsouko Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: Guerlain)
Whenever I wear Mitsouko, I feel like all the strong women who have worn it before me have got my back. There is this connection it gives me to the past (my great grandma was a huge fan) whilst feeling utterly relevant.
The first thing that stands out about this icon is that even though it was released for women in 1919, it has a real unisex quality. Sharp bergamot and spicy cinnamon combine with vetiver to make it a fragrance of equal opportunity, whilst delicious peach adds an unexpected sense of fun.
This is a scent of quiet confidence that gets increasingly gorgeous as it develops on the skin. It’s slightly enigmatic and will lend you the personality of someone who leaves a party early but whose trail and memory last far longer.
3. Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant
(Image credit: Houbigant)
I like to think of Quelques Fleurs as one of the first fragrant admissions that women were far more interesting than history had given them credit for. You see, before the incredible Robert Bienaimé created this floral bouquet of a scent in 1912, women were wearing simplistic, singular florals that lacked interest and depth, when suddenly this multi-faceted tribute to a huge bunch of flowers arrived.
To me, Quelques Fleurs feels like walking through a bouquet of flowers. Nothing is too overwhelming or heady, and yet you can almost see and feel the different colours and textures. It’s romantic yet never over the top, heady and yet also feels like being in the English countryside. It’s the most perfectly balanced floral banquet, and I totally get why Princess Diana chose it as her wedding fragrance.
4. Molinard de Molinard
(Image credit: Molinard)
Even though this fragrance was made in 1971, it feels like it might be from as far back as the roaring 20’s.
Rose and jasmine are combined with heady narcissus and ylang ylang, all leading to an utterly classy and irresistible ambery/woody dry-down. The overall effect brings to mind feisty, fabulous, luxurious French women.
When I wear this, I imagine I have a sharp bob, I’m wearing a Chanel trouser suit, and I mean business. Yes, it’s sensual, sexy even, but it also doesn’t suffer fools. If you need confidence, then this is your armour. It also has a cool and very French shrug of a shoulder to it. Worn with a leather jacket, white t-shirt and jeans, it would make you feel expensive and hard to get.
5. Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: Mugler)
You might think that Mugler’s Angel can be a bit too much, but there is no denying its iconic status. It was the first modern gourmand, and even though its praline/vanilla sweetness is intense, it also manages to be incredibly classy.
I have never met anyone who doesn’t feel great when they wear Angel. It’s an “I have arrived, I’m happy with who I am and I’m damn delicious” affirmation of a fragrance. It feels luxe but fun, sensual but playful, and never takes itself too seriously.
6. Bienaimé Jours Heureux Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: Bienaimé)
I’m obsessed with the niche fragrance house Bienaimé. It was formed by ex-head fashion buyer of Sézane Cecilia Mergui, who was at a flea market and came across a vintage powder box from a forgotten French fragrance house founded by Robert Bienaimé (See Quelques Fleurs above). She was so taken with it that she embarked on a journey of discovery that eventually saw her buying and resurrecting the House of Bienaimé.
Each fragrance in the collection is unapologetically vintage in personality and a true homage to the man himself. The fragrance that stands out to me the most is Jours Heureux, which is a powdery, hug of a scent with white musk and tonka giving a fluffy, soft edge to rose and geranium. It is vintage perfection.
7. YSL Opium Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: YSL)
Launched in 1977, Opium is such an utterly brilliant fragrance. It reminds me of my Mum in the 80s, getting ready for work. I can so clearly visualise her shoulder pads, red lips and nails. Opium was just one fragrance in an armour of “power scents” that she used in order to feel brave and strong at a time when her mainly male colleagues enjoyed putting her down.
When I wear it today, I feel that power, but also adore the unapologetic sensuality that it projects. It is brave, bold, seductive and just a bit hypnotic. Absolutely perfect when I need to exert my authority, but also feel totally irresistible.
8. No 4711 Eau de Cologne
(Image credit: 4711)
It’s crazy to think that 4711 Eau de Cologne has been around for well over 200 years. This refreshing amalgamation of bergamot, orange, lavender, rosemary and neroli is just perfect for really hot days. In fact, I always keep one handy in my fridge for splashing liberally when the sun is out.
Being a cologne (and a really affordable one at that), this is not a long-lasting scent. Instead, I see it more as one of the first wellbeing fragrances that is still doing its job of refreshing and calming our senses with just the right balance of citrus and herbs.