Just when it seems as though the skincare industry has reached its peak of innovation, a new ingredient hits the market. Next up? Silk peptides, which may just be smoothing, hydrating piece your skincare routine has been missing, according to expert dermatologists.
Whilst NAD serums and actives like azelaic acid can work wonders for brightening and blemishes, dehydrated skin can benefit from something a little more gentle—but just as hardworking. That’s where silk peptides come in.
What are silk peptides?
“Silk peptides, also known as hydrolysed silk, silk protein, or silk amino acids, are small protein fragments derived from silk,” explains Consultant Dermatologist Dr Aiza Jamil. “They are primarily made of two proteins, Fibroin, which is the structural core protein, and Sericin, which is the outer “glue-like” protein. Traditionally, this is produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori.
“In skincare, these proteins are broken down into smaller peptides and amino acids so they can be dissolved in water and better interact with the skin. Silk peptides in skincare are barrier-supporting, conditioning and hydrating, rather than signalling the skin to produce naturally occurring aspects, the way that collagen skincare does.”
So how do they function in skincare? “They’re used in skincare products where they provide a number of benefits including moisture-binding, providing a protective barrier and also a silky feel,” says Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips.
“Unlike some peptides that are designed to stimulate collagen or target specific signs of ageing, silk peptides are mainly there to hydrate and condition the skin,” he says. “Think of them as supportive ingredients that help skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable, rather than powerful active ingredients that dramatically change how the skin behaves.”
However, it’s worth considering the specific needs of your skin type before buying straight into this ingredient. “I suspect that part of the reason that they are popular is that other peptides have been shown to have a biological effect on the skin and therefore the term ‘peptide’ is popular with consumers even when it is a different peptide to that which was shown to be effective,” says Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Magnus Lynch. To be sure they will make a valuable addition to your routine, it’s worth understanding the benefits.
What are the benefits of silk peptides?
“Silk peptides are known for their exceptional moisture-binding properties which help the skin to maintain its natural moisture and elasticity,” says Dr Phillips. “They do this by forming a light, breathable film on the skin, similar to hyaluronic acid but without the tackiness.”
Dr Jamil furhter explains that “they attract water, reduce mild transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and make your skin feel instantly softer without a heavy feeling on the skin. They can also be barrier-supporting and soothing so can support compromised or sensitive skin, help reduce the feeling of tightness and improve skin comfort. They are low-irritation, non-comedogenic and generally well tolerated so are a great option for sensitive skin.”
If you’re wondering how silk peptides compare to other proteins often found in skincare, there are still some grey areas. “While they are smaller and more versatile than larger proteins such as collagen, their ability to meaningfully stimulate collagen production in the skin remains uncertain,” notes Dr Phillips. “Their real benefit lies in enhancing hydration, supporting the barrier and improving how a product feels on the skin, rather than acting as a powerful anti-ageing active.”
How to add silk peptides to your skincare routine
“Silk peptides are most commonly found in serums, moisturisers and lightweight creams. You can use them much like you would a hydrating serum, applying after cleansing and before heavier creams or SPF in the morning. They layer well with other ingredients, including antioxidants, niacinamide and retinoids, because their role is supportive rather than highly active,” explains Dr Phillips.
“You’ll also see silk peptides in haircare, particularly shampoos, conditioners and leave-in treatments, where they help smooth and condition the hair fibre. They do occasionally appear in oral supplements, but the evidence for skin benefits from ingestible silk peptides is far more limited than for topical use,” he says.
Even though they’re gentle and can be used alongside slightly more irritating ingredients, you should still start slowly. “For any new cream applied to the skin, it is important to perform a patch test on a smaller area. You should avoid them if you have any allergies to silk or related animal products,” says Dr Lynch.
Shop silk peptides
Allies of Skin
Molecular Silk Hydra Cleanser
Supercharged with silk amino acids, this cleanser hydrates and smooths whilst removing impurities.
Liz Earle
Superskin Night Cream 50ml
Infused with Persian silk tree extract, this night cream promotes a smooth, radiant complexion whilst you sleep.