Skincare acids are a motley crew. But one, in particular, needs the same publicist as hyaluronic acid or glycolic acid.
Azelaic acid may not come with the same fanfare, but this unassuming ingredient can be a better option if your skin skews sensitive, acne-prone or you battle with pigmentation and mild to moderate rosacea.
Because it’s not as well known, the myriad ways to use azelaic acid can be mystifying. The fact that it’s a mild exfoliator but also moonlights as an anti-inflammatory can be confusing when it comes to slotting it into your regime.
Below, our experts explain what makes azelaic acid such a hard-working ingredient, how to incorporate it alongside your other skincare actives and what skin types will benefit most from using it.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains such as rye, wheat and barley. When it comes to skincare products, however, it is typically chemically engineered in a lab to ensure it is as stable and effective as possible.
It is also not an ‘acid’ in the traditional sense of the word. Azelaic acid differs from resurfacing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) because it does not break down the bonds between skin cells, causing them to peel away.
Its larger molecular size also makes it less irritating as it is harder for the skin to absorb azelaic acid. The fact that it is less potent than, say, glycolic acid, means it is much easier for someone with sensitive skin to tolerate.
Azelaic acid for acne
Azelaic acid has antibacterial properties, meaning it can break up the blockages in your pores that lead to breakouts. It is also an anti-inflammatory, meaning it takes the heat out of angry spots, reduces the swelling and flattens the size.
Studies show that azelaic acid also regulates skin cell turnover. This is important, says Dr Anjali Mahto, a renowned medical and cosmetic consultant dermatologist in Harley street, as a key issue for acne sufferers is “hyperkeratinisation” – or, in layman’s terms, the abnormal shedding of skin cells.
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Azelaic acid for acne scars
Some people use azelaic acid to treat acne scarring as well as breakouts. Azelaic acid is known to block the enzyme tyrosinase, which causes excess melanin production in the skin and shows up as dark brown or red discolouration.
“As a tyrosinase inhibitor, azelaic acid can also be used to fade lingering acne marks and treat hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme MD, founder of the Adonia Medical Clinic and highly experienced aesthetic doctor.
What else does azelaic acid do for your skin?
Azelaic acid for pigmentation: “Topical azelaic acid is a good option for reducing pigmentation often associated with pregnancy,” says Dr Mahto.
Azelaic acid for rosacea: Azelaic acid is often prescribed by dermatologists for the treatment of rosacea. As an anti-inflammatory, patches of rosacea (as well as acne) are less red and irritated. “It is one of the few topicals that is safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, allowing women to continue treating their rosacea or acne, which can flare up during this period,” explains Dr Ejikeme.