Traditionally, a patriarchal society, Turkey now feels as though it is in the midst of dramatic change. Women have found their voice and the strength of sisterhood and confidence comes through in these moments, as well as in the bustling shopping malls and cocktail bars alive with all women groups, Modest dressing is respected but elegantly channeled into high necked silk tops paired with jeans and high heels.
Back at my hotel that evening I watch the light fall over the Bosphorus. With its unfailingly clear skies and panoramic views, Istanbul can claim sunsets as its signature like no other city on Earth. In Islamic culture the new day begins at dusk and this is an hour to be savoured as the colours change and fade accompanied by the Maghrib call to prayer.
That night I sleep for 11 hours, leaving the window open to hear the waves, even the smell of diesel and hubbub from the night ferries is strangely nostalgic and calming.
Restored, I spend the following day in the heart of the Old City, and join the queues in the early morning for the Hagia Sophia, one of the Byzantine Empire’s surviving architectural marvels. I buy a head-to toe scratchy blue, hooded gown from a street seller and wander into this sacred building and its breathtaking domed beauty of calligraphy, mosaics and chandeliers. Something symbolic about it still remains – an important symbol of power and representative of a unique culture that blends Arabic, Persian, Turkish and Armenian influences.
This pic shows beautiful and colorful turkish lamps and lanterns hanging in Grand bazaar in istanbul. The pic is taken in april 2019.Subodh Agnihotri
This is a city with immense potential and its journey is only just beginning.
What to do in Istanbul:
Visit the markets early
Unless you are genuinely in the market for large supplies of cheap saffron, visit the Grand Bazaar when it is closed (pre 9am). Try sweet Turkish coffee on the tiny steep cobbled streets around the entrance and retreat when the crowds arrive.
The stretch of Bosphorus from Galata to Ortakoy has the best hotels, interspersed with museums and palaces, all of which command fabulous views. But only the Shangri-La has a perch so close to the water you can hear the waves from your bedroom. Try the Ossetra caviar with blinis while you watch the sunset and experience an authentic Hamam in their excellent spa.
The Peninsula is the new kid on the block with a jaw dropping position and exceptional attention to detail. Swim all year round in the infinity pool while watching ships in the harbour glide by, try the best shopping experience in the city at neighbouring Galataport and reclaim your soul in their vast underground wellness centre.
Take the tram
Take the tram — it feels complicated the first time you do it but it will pay off- it’s the only way to move around this busy, congested city efficiently.