However, some argue this is overcomplicated while others think that it’s far too simplistic. “I don’t like to use the letter and number classification system because it varies so much,” says Subrina. “Also, one head of hair can have different curl types within it, so I find it best if the person comes in and we can work it out personally to them.”
Vernon Francois, the US based British hairstylist famed for his work on Lupita Nyong’o’s hair agrees, “I find the combination of letters and numbers unnecessarily confusing, perhaps because I’m very dyslexic!,” says Vernon. “So, I created my own hair texture icons, which is a universal visual language that allows you to identify your hair type just by looking at the shape that the strands make. There’s kinky, coily, curly, wavy and straight,” he says.
Hair texture icons credit: Vernon François
How can you examine what type of curl pattern you have? And should it be done wet or dry?
“If you want to learn more about your own hair type, firstly, you’ll need to encourage your hair’s true texture to show. This is particularly relevant if you’ve had it styled in a way that suppresses the texture, like pulled taught away from the face, blow dried straight, braided or worn in a bun,” says Vernon. All of the experts agree it’s best to examine your curl pattern after you’ve washed it when it’s still slightly wet “as the texture is more evident,” explains Charlotte.
“Look at the shape the strands are making,” says Vernon. “Coily hair will resemble springs that you could fit a pencil through the middle of or even be much smaller; kinky hair has kinks in it, like a Z shape; curly hair will wind around itself making either big circle shapes or corkscrews; wavy hair will create anything from long stretched out curves to an S shape.”
Why is it important to know what hair texture we have?
“The self education on our own hair texture is crucial so we can learn how to look after it in the most appropriate way,” says Vernon. “It’s the same as working out what skin type you have”, explains Subrina. “Think of your hair as an umbrella term like fabric,” she adds. “Within fabric there’s denim, hessian, linen, nylon, silk and so on. You’d use different products on each to keep them in good condition, it’s the same with hair. If someone’s got thicker, denser curls, they might want to use a product that’s a little bit more creamy or buttery. If someone has finer curls they might want something that’s more liquid or foam based.”
How has the attitude towards curly hair in recent years changed?
‘I’ve seen lots of women move away from relaxers to their natural texture. Many are not used to looking at their own natural hair that way and it being beautiful to them so they get quite emotional about it,” says Subrina. “But if you’ve not had the visibility growing up of having people who look like you – with hair like yours – in your mind, you don’t see what you have as beautiful.”