One study found that the topical application of a 15% azelaic acid gel on rosacea-prone skin reduces the trigger for inflammation. It also treated the redness, raised bumps and pustules.
Better still, “It is one of the few topicals that is safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, allowing women to continue treating their rosacea or acne, which can flare up during this period,” explains Dr Ejikeme.
Created with rosacea in mind, The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum delivers a double whammy of anti-inflammatory azelaic acid to dial down redness and a green-tinted formula to help mask flushed skin.
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4. Azelaic acid can gently exfoliate
Azelaic acid isn’t an ‘acid’ in the traditional sense of the word because it doesn’t break down the bonds between skin cells, causing them to peel away. It’s also a large molecule that is harder for the skin to absorb, making it less irritating.
According to Dr Ejikeme, azelaic acid is a milder exfoliator than resurfacing alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), including glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids, which makes it a good choice for dry or sensitive skin in need of brightening.
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5. Azelaic acid can soothe perioral dermatitis
Hailey Bieber captioned a TikTok famous video with: “Azelaic Acid is found to be effective in treating the inflammation caused by POD”. And she’s absolutely right – azelaic acid helps to reduce the redness and bumps associated with perioral dermatitis (POD).
Can you use azelaic acid every day?
That depends on the concentration and the skin concern you’re trying to treat. “Azelaic acid can be obtained over the counter in strengths of 10%, or on prescription in the form of Finacea (15%) and Skinoren (20%),” says Dr Mahto.
Generally speaking, a 10% over-the-counter formula can be applied once a day. When it comes to treating perioral dermatitis, cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting says that, while a low dose of azelaic acid can dial down redness and spots, it’s best to initially use it on alternate days until your skin gets used to it.
For prescription products, follow your doctor’s instructions and the manufacturer’s guidelines.
How to use azelaic acid for the best results:
- Apply azelaic acid to clean skin before moisturiser.
- Use it all over if you have acne rather than as a targeted treatment on spots, recommends Dr Bunting.
What should you not mix with azelaic acid?
DON’T… mix azelaic acid with more acids: “It is exfoliating, so take care if you are using other acids,” warns Dr Ejikeme. “To avoid over-exfoliating the skin, stick to one resurfacing ingredient and increase slowly unless advised differently by your doctor.”