You may have heard the word ‘exosomes’ popping up over your social media feeds as of late and wondering what on earth they are.
Being hailed as the next holy grail skincare ingredient; exosomes are a regenerative ingredient that act as messengers between your cells. They carry information – like proteins and genetic material – from one cell to another, helping your skin repair and adapt to products much faster.
“Exosomes are extracellular vesicles which are tiny bubbles released from stem cells,” explains regenerative medicine expert and plastic surgeon Mr Tunc Tiryaki.
“They act as building blocks, repair mechanisms and messengers, carrying genetic information and proteins to cells to perform different functions.”
These powerful little bubbles can help boost collagen, improve skin texture and reduce inflammation.
Already a popular professional treatment in Korea, exosomes are only just finding their way from dermatology clinics into at-home formulas.
So, doctors and skincare experts explain everything you need to know about this new ‘trailblazing’ ingredient…
What exactly are exosomes?
Originally derived from medical science to help speed up wound healing, exosomes are now being used in skincare to assist in rejuvenation and age reversal.
In dermatology clinics, exosomes are used in combination with treatments such as radio frequency micro-needling or lasers, to improve the effectiveness of these standalone treatments.
“They have a more potent anti-ageing effect when used in combination and they also reduce the downtime,” explains skin and aesthetics expert Dr Ed Robinson.
“They calm down inflammation from processes like micro-needling and laser which can cause you to be very red or out of action for a few days even.”
However, when it comes to topical use in skincare, “exosomes penetrate the skin barrier and deliver regenerative signals that help repair tissue, reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen and elastin production”, explains Tiryaki.
“This can lead to smoother, firmer and more youthful-looking skin.”
So where do they come from? Tiryaki says exosomes can be derived from plants, animals, humans, microbial and food sources such as eggs and honey.
“[Plant-derived exosomes] are usually vegan friendly [but] are not quite as effective as animal-derived ones, because you want exosomes which are as similar to human DNA as possible,” explains Robinson.
“There are exosomes, particularly purasomes made by a brand called DermaFocus, that use bovine colostrum (part of cow breast milk), those are very similar to human exosomes.”
What sets exosomes apart from other regenerative ingredients?
We’ve seen everything from peptides to stem cells claim holy grail status, but what sets exosomes apart?
“Exosomes are active biological communicators that go beyond surface-level benefits,” explains Tiryaki. “While peptides and stem cells may support skin health, exosomes directly influence cellular behaviour by delivering targeted instructions.”
According to Tiryaki, they contain almost three times more growth factors than adult stem cells and are proven to repair tissue, reduce signs of ageing and reverse cell deterioration.
“Their ability to pass through the skin and blood-brain barrier sets them apart in both efficacy and potential.”
What are the benefits of using exosomes?
As exosomes improve the speed in which your cells communicate, this means they can speed up repair and recovery within the skin, meaning your anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory products will work better and more effectively when used in conjunction.
“Exosomes are a bit of a multitasker,” explains aesthetics and skincare specialist Dr Ellie Sateei.
“They’re especially beneficial for ageing skin in boosting collagen, reducing fine lines and improving elasticity.“They also help calm inflammation, making them great for post-acne scarring or rosacea-prone skin,” she says. “Plus, they can brighten pigmentation over time.”
Are exosomes safe?
Hearing the words “stem cells” or “biologically derived” can be off-putting for some – so is there good reason to be nervous about using exosomes?
The experts say no. “Exosomes differ from stem cells in that they are cell-free and non-living,” explains Tiryaki.
“They do not contain the entire cell or DNA, making them more stable and safer for cosmetic use.
“When sourced ethically and safely, such as through animal cord blood and processed into hybrosomes, exosomes are generally well tolerated across all skin types,” he says.
How to incorporate exosomes into your skincare routine
Exosomes are now appearing in everything from masks to moisturisers, but the most effect way to incorporate them is through advanced serums or in a clinic itself.
“To incorporate them into a routine effectively, apply exosome-based products after cleansing,” explains Tiryaki.
“At home, use them on clean skin before heavier creams or oils, treat them like your serum step,” explains Dr Sateei.
“To get the most bang for your buck, pair them with treatments that create micro-channels in the skin, so they penetrate deeper.”
How to spot gimmicks
If you’re now on the look out for some exosome-based skincare, there are some marketing red flags to be aware of, so you know you’re getting the real deal.
“Look for products that are backed by clinical studies, specify the source of their exosomes and explain their delivery mechanism, such as liposome or hybrosome technology,” advises Tiryaki.
“Avoid vague claims like ‘stem cell technology’ with no scientific support, and be cautious of brands that promise immediate or injectable-like results.”
The experts say it’s crucial to ensure the product is from a regulated and transparent manufacturer, as unregulated exosome formulas may pose health risks.