When you think of the best hotels in Santorini, you might envisage clifftop boutique hotels overlooking a deep blue Aegean panorama as the sun sets over the horizon. What you might not have anticipated, however, is a claustrophobic number of tourists just outside the perimeter of your Instagram money shot. Indeed, the reality of Santorini’s central locations – Oia and Fira – is more akin to the queue for one of Disney’s character meeting points – read: holiday makers filling the narrow white-washed streets, lining up for their ‘vacation of a lifetime’ photo or rather the €25-a-pop cocktail bar that TikTok promises is a ‘MUST’.
The reason for this mass of Brits abroad? It’s the beauty of the island’s architecture and sun-kissed climes that draws our fellow nationals. The escarpment is undeniably stunning, the sunsets set the skyline ablaze and the rich mix of feta, Cycladic wines and fava (the local specialty) make for a delectable cuisine. Indeed, setting the commotion of the tourist scene aside, Santorini has much to boast about. That said, my island highlight lies to the south east of Oia’s hustle and bustle; nestled within the rustic village of Pyrgos sits Carpe Diem resort, a real life Greek utopia.
I was lucky enough to visit the resort at the start of the spring-summer season for a short but sweet two-night stay overlooking the generous 270° views at the hotels disposal. As our taxi driver transfers us from airport to hotel (a swift 10-minute journey), he notes that Carpe Diem offers guests one of the most spectacular views on the island. “The best place to stay,” he says, setting my partner and I some lofty expectations from the offset.
On first glance, the resort – more of a boutique stay with only 10 rooms – is immaculate. Not a hair out of place (an impressive feat considering May’s gale force winds) nor a scratch on the hotel’s white-splashed walls. The pool, of the kidney-shaped infinity variety, looks over Fira straight ahead and Oia to the north west. Meanwhile, a quaint restaurant-come-bar offers guests a variety of daytime hot weather specialities – think: ceviche and club sandwiches – and nighttime luxuries – – think: a crayfish and veal surf n’ turf. All three meals graced my plate during our stay and all now live in my mind’s food hall of fame.
Walking into our room, I was swept away by the crisp, clean and completely coastal grandmother-esque decor. Room is, I might add, perhaps an understatement when describing the suites at Carpe Diem. While there are smaller stays at 85m², all rooms have their own private pool on a secluded sun terrace. On top of this luxe spec, my suite – the Lava – had everything from a stocked record player (Frank Sinatra albums aplenty) to a two-person stone carved bath. I’d wager that this space and breathing room cannot be afforded by the likes of Oia’s petite cliff-front stays, each built into the rock itself, fighting with the neighbouring hotels and villas for even so much as an extra square metre of space. Of course, I’m sure there are a handful of £1000+ a night exceptions, but for me the calm and peace of Pyrgos and Carpe Diem is unmatched.