Getting older is inevitable. From the moment we’re born, the ageing process begins. When we think of skin ageing, we immediately think of fine lines and wrinkles. We spend much of our disposable income and hours in front of our bathroom mirror trying to smooth them out. But there is so much more to the narrative. Did you know that there are subtle changes that begin to occur much earlier in our lives?
Clinic Lead Aesthetician and Skincare Consultant at Revive Clinic, Dr Kevita Bains, reveals that there are, in fact, some early tell-tale signs that you’re probably unaware of. Here she talks us through them and explains what can be done to tackle each one head-on.
1. Pronounced smile lines
The ‘ageing process’ starts in our mid-20s when our collagen production naturally starts to slow down by about 1% each year. This increases as we get older. Dr Bains explains that during the first five years of menopause, we can lose around 30%, followed by an 2% every year thereafter. Collagen is crucial for bouncy and firm skin, so if your stocks are low every time you smile, laugh or open your mouth, the creases around your mouth can deepen quickly.
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“The depth and visibility depend on your genetics, sun exposure, and how much your face moves throughout the day,” she says. “As a basic rule, protect your skin every four hours with SPF50 with PA++++ for maximum broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays. In the evening, a well-formulated retinol or retinal can help stimulate collagen production and improve fine lines over time. Start slowly, two to three nights a week, to avoid irritation. If your smile lines have deepened with age, a course of microneedling treatments can help stimulate new collagen production within the dermis, gradually improving skin firmness and softening the appearance of wrinkles.”
2. Under-eye hollowing
Do you ever catch sight of yourself in the mirror and, even if you’ve slept a full eight hours each night over the past week, you still look exhausted? This is an early indication of skin ageing. “As you get older, you lose fat in this region, and the bone structure underneath can shift slightly,” explains Dr Bains. “This creates a hollow appearance that makes you look tired, even when you’re well-rested. It’s not wrinkles or sagging exactly, but rather a loss of volume that changes the contours of your face.”
If this is something that you’ve noticed (and it won’t affect everyone in the same way), then caffeine eye creams are a good way to try to reduce puffiness and improve circulation in the area. The bad news is that no eye cream will help to restore volume. “Only tear-trough filler administered by a qualified aesthetician can replace volume loss and create a smoother transition between the cheek and under-eye area,” Dr Bains says.
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Caffeine Eye Cream
3. Enlarged pores
If you’ve got oily or combination skin, you’re probably used to contending with enlarged pores caused by excess sebum. However, Dr Rains notes that as we age and our collagen depletes, the skin around the pores sags, making the pores appear larger. “Sun damage accelerates this process, which is why people with years of sun exposure notice enlarged pores more prominently,” she explains. “The frustrating part is that enlarged pores can make your skin texture look rougher overall, even if you don’t have active breakouts. They’re particularly noticeable on the cheeks and nose, where oil production is higher.”
Tackling enlarged pores requires collagen-boosting products, as well as targeted skincare to keep the pores clean. Retinoids stimulate collagen production, vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis, niacinamide helps improve skin elasticity and regulate oil, and AHAs and BHAs will help to exfoliate the surface and clear out dirt from the pores. “Consider HydraFacial to remove deep-seated congestion, excess oil and dead skin cells while simultaneously infusing hydration, leaving pores looking clearer after just one session,” suggests Dr Bains.
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4. Jawline definition loss
“Your jawline is defined by collagen and elastin in the skin, plus the underlying bone and muscle structure,” says Dr Bains. “As collagen declines with age, the skin loses its grip on these structures, and the jawline becomes less defined.”
What does this look like? A softness around the chin area that might be tricky to see where your face ends and your neck begins. For long-term structural treatment, “dermal filler along the jawline, often combined with restoring volume in the mid-face first, can help redefine contours while keeping results natural and balanced.”
5. Neck creases
Whilst we all wish our screen time stats were lower, the truth is we are at the mercy of our phones, and as a result, the term tech neck is now a recognised postural issue. And whilst most complain of hunched shoulders and stiffness, it also causes lines to appear on the neck. “This constant bending creates horizontal creases that break down collagen and elastin over time,” Dr Bains says. “The more you look down, the deeper these creases become, and they can appear surprisingly early if you spend hours daily hunched over your device.” Which, let’s be honest, so many of us do.
So, apart from holding our devices up to our eye line, what else can we do? The aesthetician says that gentle neck stretches and posture correction are an effective at-home solution. “Take regular breaks for shoulder rolls to release tension, neck tilts to stretch the lateral neck muscles and chin tucks to encourage better posture throughout the day. Practising these stretches several times a day, especially during work breaks, can help minimise repetitive tension and reduce the likelihood of new creases forming over time.”
6. Dullness
We associate a glowy complexion with young and healthy skin, and quite rightly. In our younger years, our skin naturally sheds dead skin cells and replaces them with fresh ones at a thriving rate, revealing a natural radiance below. But, as with so many things, cell turnover slows down as we get older. This causes dead cells to accumulate on the skin surface, causing dullness. “You might notice your skin doesn’t glow the way it used to, even when you’re well-hydrated and well-rested,” Dr Bains notes. “Luckily, it’s one of the easiest signs of ageing to address. Chemically exfoliating once a week with a combination of 2% mandelic and 2% lactic acid is gentler than harsh physical scrubs and works well for most skin types. In clinic, you can explore professional chemical peels, which work at a deeper level to accelerate cell turnover and revive dull skin.”
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7. Hyperpigmentation
Pigmentation appears on our skin long after the damage has been done. Dr Bains says that the patches of uneven tone, freckles and dark spots caused by improper sun protection in our teens and twenties often appear gradually in our 30s. “These patches often appear on the face, hands, and chest, areas that get the most sun exposure. They’re also one of the hardest signs to reverse completely, which is why prevention through SPF50+ daily is so important. Vitamin C, particularly L-ascorbic acid, can help fade hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase responsible for melanin production.”
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