So many of us have a damaged skin barrier and you’ve likely never even heard of it. The first point of contact when it comes to environmental stressors and the place hormonal disharmony appears, it’s also the area that’s most at risk from the side effects of overusing products and applying too many active ingredients. It’s why brands are working hard at creating formulas that soothe, rebalance and aid inflamed skin barriers.
“Almost every day in my clinic, I see patients who are potentially damaging their skin barrier with products that were never designed for them,” says Dr Hugh Lyford, who works with Coats skincare. “I get it – we’re all constantly bombarded with trending products and they all sound great, but in reality, a lot of products are designed for skin with specific concerns, and these can end up doing more harm than good on skin that’s healthy. The key is to use products that are dermatologically tested and clinically proven to protect the skin barrier.”
But the burning question: how do you know if your skin barrier is damaged? And what can you do about it? We put all our questions to the derms to find out…
Firstly, what exactly is the skin barrier?
“The skin barrier is the outer layer of skin that is responsible for maintaining hydration and protecting us from irritants, allergens, infection and pollution,” shares Dr. Justine Hextall, Consultant Dermatologist for La Roche-Posay. “A robust skin barrier is the cornerstone of skin health in my view. Always look for products that are going to support a healthy skin barrier and you will be on the front foot with skin care,” she adds.
“Known as the stratum corneum, it consists of lipids, natural moisturising factors and skin cells that work together to protect the skin,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. Acting like border control by keeping the good stuff like moisture and oil in and blocking the bad stuff such as skin aggressors out, it is fundamental in the skin’s microbiome and innate moisture system. “It absorbs and maintains moisture by preventing trans-epidermal water loss and ensures skin is not stripped of its essential moisture which can lead to dry dehydrated skin, and breakouts,” adds Dr Emma Amoafo-Mensah.
Ben Esdaile, Consultant Dermatologist for Skin + Me explains that an intact skin barrier is like a brick wall held tightly together with cement. “When the skin barrier is damaged, the brick wall cement does not work properly and the skin tends to lose water easily and the skin is more vulnerable to external irritants,” he adds. If this barrier becomes damaged or compromised, the outer layer of skin starts to look dull, rough and dry; it can be more easily irritated and sensitive.
How do you know if you have a damaged skin barrier?
“Symptoms may include redness, irritation, sensitivity, increased dryness and a compromised ability to retain moisture,’ explains skin and wellness expert, Marie Reynolds. Eczema, psoriasis and breakouts are also signals that your skin barrier is vulnerable and not performing at it’s peak.
How do I fix a damaged skin barrier?
First things first, adopt a simple skincare routine. “I recommend stripping your skincare back, rather than layering on more,” says Dr Hextall. “Keep it simple and use something like the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+, which has been shown to improve the skin barrier within an hour of application.”