The fashion world is once again proving its cyclical nature, with the unexpected return of an accessory once relegated to the past: the brooch.
While clothing revivals are common, few items have made such a surprising comeback.
Previously associated with conservative cardigans and antique jewellery collections, brooches are now gracing the runways of luxury houses like Dior and Chanel.
More tellingly, they have become a prominent feature on red carpets, from the Brit Awards to the Golden Globes.
Celebrity stylist Ellis Ranson attributes this resurgence to a wider trend in fashion, particularly within menswear, favouring classic tailoring.
“I actually styled Rio [Ferdinand] for the Brits [in 2024] and we put a brooch on him,” she explains.
“Menswear can be really simple – we’re going back to classic tailoring with oversized lapels – and instead of being too creative with the shape of the suit, individuality comes from the brooch.”
Instead of experimenting with our base outfit, we’re now getting more creative with our accessories.
Why brooches are trending again
After years dominated by minimalism and “quiet luxury”, there’s a growing appetite for pieces that feel personal rather than anonymous. Luxury stylist Oriona Robb believes that’s the real reason brooches have resurfaced.
“We’re tired of looking the same,” she says, “after years of uniform dressing, there’s a hunger for individuality – for pieces that tell a story rather than just complete an outfit.”
Wearing a brooch today isn’t about signalling formality or status. “We’re not wearing them to look traditional,” Robb explains, “we’re wearing them as acts of self-expression.”
The golden rule: contrast
Both experts agree that the fastest way to make a brooch look dated is to style it too neatly. Matching it to a tweed jacket or overly classic outfit risks tipping into old-fashioned.
“The key is contrast,” Robb says. “Pair a beautiful brooch with something unexpected – a chunky knit, a leather jacket, even denim. Let it be the disruptor.”
That sense of tension between old and new is what makes the brooch feel current. Ranson echoes the point, noting that relaxed tailoring and bigger lapels are doing a lot of the heavy lifting.
“They aren’t looking dated because of how they’re being worn,” she says. “It’s colourful tailoring, oversized shapes – and sometimes clusters of brooches rather than just one.”
Next Gold Tone Flower Brooch, £14
NA-KD Maxi Oversized Double Breasted Blazer, £65.95
Zara Knit Jumper with Wide Sleeves, £35.99
Wear it beyond the lapel
While the lapel remains the safest starting point, it’s far from the only option. In fact, the most interesting styling often happens elsewhere.
Robb suggests pinning a brooch at the collar of a shirt for more of an editorial feel, or using one to gather fabric at the waist of an oversized shirt or dress – a subtle way to create shape without adding a belt.
“I’ve also seen them worn asymmetrically on knitwear, closer to the shoulder or even at the hem,” she says.
Ranson predicts the placement will only get more experimental.
“I think we’ll start seeing them on jumpers, knits, T-shirts – even on coats,” she says. She also points to the resurgence of ties as a possible new frontier. “I’ve just done a shoot with embellished ties, so maybe [we’ll see that] or brooches will replace buttons on shirts. It’s a new way to personalise your wardrobe.”
Anthropologie Tartan Bow Brooch, £38
And Other Stories Draped Brooch T-shirt, £23 (was £37)
Casual doesn’t mean careless
One of the biggest misconceptions about brooches is that they only work with formalwear. In reality, they’re more effective when styled casually with your everyday outfit.
“A brooch on a shirt feels very smart,” says Robb, “on a knit, it becomes more unexpected – and I actually think that’s more interesting.”
Ranson agrees, suggesting vintage brooches paired with everyday basics are the best way to go. “You can go vintage,” she says, “team it with a suit and a white T for daytime, or relaxed casual looks.”
A fail-safe formula
If you’re hesitant about styling the brooch, both stylists say keep it pared-back elsewhere.
Ranson suggests suggests for women “a white T, an oversized boyfriend blazer, jeans and a small-heeled boot – then add the brooch on the lapel.” For men, she says the approach is nearly identical: “A relaxed blazer, suit trousers, a white or black T and the brooch. Swap the T for a shirt if you want it smarter.”
Robb seconds this, stating: “The plainer your canvas, the more impact the brooch has.”
M&S High-Waisted, Wide-Leg Jeans, £40
Office Amelie Kitten-Heel Ankle Boots, £49.99