Sri Lanka is the most grounding country I’ve ever visited – and this hotel was my favourite

Uga Riva was the first hotel I stayed at – of a total of eight – during my two-and-a-half weeks spent in Sri Lanka. And actually, if you’re following a similar route to the well-trodden path ventured by most first-time visitors to the country, it’ll either be your last or your first, too.

As we did, you’ll likely fly into and out of Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. This airport – despite what the name might suggest – is actually closer to the resort town of Negombo than the bustling capital city.

Your flight will probably have been long (it can take anytime between 10.5 and 13 hours to fly directly from London to Sri Lanka), and the very last thing you’ll fancy doing is hopping on a busy public bus – or embarking on a three hour drive to the likes of Sigyria or Kandy (common second and third stops in many Sri Lankan tours). More appealing? A night or two at a hotel close to the airport. Somewhere you can acclimatise, get over your jet lag, and experience a wonderful first taste of all there is to come.

That’s where Uga Riva comes in. The five-star hotel is located just a 40-minute drive from the airport, inside a beautifully restored 180-year-old colonial manor. It was the home of a prominent Sri Lankan family, once upon a time; many dignitaries visited during this period, notably Mahatma Gandhi. Since then, it has been lovingly renovated to create the luxury seven-bedroom property that it is today.

While the roads between the airport and Uga Riva may be a little chaotic, the vibe inside could not be more opposite – and from the moment we passed through the property’s gates, I felt relaxed and well-looked-after. Kind and smiling staff lifted our cases from our taxi (we didn’t see them again until they appeared at the bottom of our bed), and bite-sized desserts (alongside cold towels and refreshing iced tea) were served as we checked in beside a lily pool.

The reception courtyard feels bright, airy and open, leading out to a pool: a pool lined by sun loungers, palm trees, and the aforementioned seven bedrooms. Inside our spacious bedroom – stylish but packed with colonial charm – is where the relaxation really began. The centrepiece: a Queen-sized four-poster bed set beneath frilled and elegantly-draped mosquito nets. The fan and tile flooring meant the room felt like a cooling sanctuary from the humid outdoors, and the bathroom was spacious and calming. Fluffy bathrobes, slippers and complimentary toiletries – to be used inside the rainfall shower – made my long-haul flight feel like a distant memory.