Known for pioneering results-driven formulas and cutting-edge ingredients, South Korea’s beauty industry has once again delivered with an innovation that promises serious skin benefits: spicule skincare.
Microspicules have been used in K-Beauty for over a decade, but the popularity of brands like Medicube and VT Cosmetics in the West means that Google searches for ‘spicule skincare’ have increased by 119% YoY.
“I first noticed microspicules gaining real traction when we saw social media interest surge and Korean brands began building entire franchises around the technology,” says Chelsey Saunders, Director of Skincare, Haircare and Fragrance at Boots. “At Boots, we track global innovation closely, and when something moves from niche to mainstream in South Korea, it’s usually a sign it’s about to travel. What really signalled to us the strength and longevity of the trend was how confidently brands were talking about the innovation and its exciting results in terms of skin texture and overall glow. It felt less like a fleeting trend and more like the next evolution of results-driven skincare.”
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What are spicules?
Spicule technology, or ‘reedles’, has been compared to microneedling in that it’s a type of delivery system. Whilst you might expect microspicules to have come directly from a lab, they are, in fact, a little more natural. “Microspicules are tiny, highly purified, microscopic needle-like structures that come from sea sponge,” says Dr Christine Hall, an aesthetics and Korean skincare doctor. “They are made from natural minerals and are so small you can’t see them with the naked eye.”
How does spicule skincare work?
The idea is, much like microneedling, the tiny needles penetrate the skin, creating little channels that allow active ingredients to penetrate and absorb more efficiently. “They allow ingredients like peptides or soothing cica to absorb far more effectively—in some cases up to 60 times more than if you simply applied the product alone,” Dr Hall adds. “That’s why people notice brighter, plumper-looking skin more quickly.” She says this helps other skincare products work more effectively. For example, using your hyaluronic acid serum after a product with spicules inside will help the hyaluronic acid absorb better.
By creating these teeny tiny ‘wounds’, your skin also goes into repair and recovery mode, which helps to stimulate collagen production.
What’s the benefit of introducing spicules into your routine?
Spicule skincare is ideal if you feel like your skin always looks a little dull, uneven or tired. Which, if we’re all honest with ourselves, is probably most of us. “The biggest benefit is visible glow and smoothness,” says Dr Hall. “Microspicules can help refine the surface and enhance the performance of everything you apply afterwards. Over time, skin looks clearer, brighter and more polished—the look often referred to as “glass skin”.
Spicule skincare is particularly helpful for early signs of ageing and mild pigmentation, she says. It’s also suitable for those who want noticeable results, without in-clinic injectable treatments.
All skin types should be able to tolerate spicule skincare, even those with sensitive skin, says Dr Hall. However, she warns those with eczema, psoriasis, broken skin or a severely damaged barrier to get advice from a professional first.
When you apply a spicule seum, chances are you’ll feel a tingling or prickling sensation. Whilst this is normal, many spicule serums come in different strengths and concentrations. “Lower strengths—often labelled 0.1 to 1%, or 50 to 100 in ‘reedle’ systems—are suitable for daily or frequent use,” explains Dr Hall. “These give a gentle boost and are ideal for beginners.” These figures refer to the concentration or number of the needles rather than the size of the needle or the active ingredient. “Higher strengths—sometimes labelled 1000 or around 10%—are more intensive and usually used once or twice a week. These create a stronger stimulation effect and can feel more noticeably prickly and are more likely to cause some transient redness and maybe even peeling.”
So similar to retinoids, it’s a good idea to start low and slow. Apply the product after cleansing, followed by barrier-boosting skincare. Don’t use other punchy actives, as this can exacerbate any side effects.
Medicube
One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule 2000
Arguably, the best known spicule serum, Medicube’s One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule comes in two strengths: 2000 and 7500. Formulated with two beauty buzzwords—spicules and exosomes—this serum improves skin texture, tightens pores and helps future skincare absorb by up to 242% more.
Genabelle
Glutathione Vita Glow Spicule Shot
If dull skin is your primary concern, this potent brightening serum is powered by a winning combination of microspicules and ethyl ascorbyl ether, a stable version of vitamin C that evens out tone and brings radiance back to the complexion.
If you are new to spicule skincare, the VT Cosmetics Reedle Shoots are a really good place to start. Why? because it comes in four different strengths—50, 100, 300, 700—making it simple to navigate at the beginning. The Reedle Shot uses spicules that are coated in soothing cica (centella asiatica) to protect the barrier whilst the spicules get to work. It refines skin texture, revealing a much smoother base.
TIAM
AC Fighting Spot Rx Cream
Fighting blemishes is painful enough, but to then be left with long-lasting stubborn red or dark spots adds insult to injury. This clever cream uses spicules to exfoliate the dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, as well as creating those all important channels that allow zinc oxide tackle the spots head on and niacinamide to even out skin tone.
Celimax
Retinol Shot Tightening Serum
The combination of 0.1% retinol, a firming peptide complex and spicules in this formula make it a must-try if you are worried about the tell-tale signs of ageing. You only need a small amount, and we recommend using it every couple of days to begin with, followed by a nourishing night cream. The result? Smoother texture, softened fine lines and tighter pores.