As her former studies of architecture always inform the silhouettes of her designs, it was fitting that Roksanda Ilincic decided to show her Spring 2024 collection in the brutalist surrounds of the Barbican Sculpture Court in London. An amphitheatre in the middle of the concrete complex, the venue provided the perfect space for the Serbian-born designer’s bold and beautiful colour-pop couture.

Unexpected autumn sunshine beat down on show-goers determined to parade their new season outfits (wilting in the heat) while a welcome breeze lifted the hems and trains on light as air chiffon skirts that the models wore – and went some way to revive the crowd.

In a city known for raw, young talent, Roksanda Ilincic – whose label is known simply as Roksanda – has transcended to establishment status – without falling into complacency or old school stuffiness. Since her first appearance on the London Fashion Week schedule in September 2005 Roksanda has consistently honed her vision into it’s current incarnation. It’s a polished grown-up glamour that is full of dramatic silhouettes, modern takes on evening looks and bold utilitarian outerwear that the art world and theatre crowd have all fallen for. Dame Vanessa Redgrave, Joely Richardson and Erin O’Connor were all front row guests at this season’s show wearing statement dresses in zingy shades that Roksanda is now renowned for.

The collection included a palette of chamois leather yellow, highlighter pink, lapis lazuli blue and wisteria mauves. As dopamine dressing continues to be a key component of getting dressed each morning, these quirky colour clashes had us drooling. These unusual colour mixes, which Roksanda always excels at, might seem challenging at first glance but we know you’ll be wearing them next spring…

Before even one model set foot on the catwalk, soprano Isabelle Peters sang a haunting soundtrack of operatic arias that echoed around the bowl-like buildings (which is one of Roksanda’s favourite London landmarks.) It was a goosebump moment that highlighted the brilliance of collaboration between disciplines and proved that when fashion, music and architecture combine, they can create such a dazzling display of the arts.

Standout looks included sharply tailored jackets worn against fluid layers of chiffon or full skirts interspersed with panels of transparent mixed-fibre panelling. Roksanda was keen to The see-through elements were designed to reveal the softness of the female body underneath the structure above. Mission accomplished.

Boned hems on the edge of skirts and dresses formed cantilevered silhouettes that looked like billowing tents, standing proud of the body, while neat hats crowned many of the looks and were inspired by the traditional headgear of Serbian monks, worn at the monasteries Roksanda visited when she was growing up.

On top of the bold colours, were panels and pieces that had been daubed with artisanal screen prints of hand-marbled patterns, which added depth to the panes of bold colour.

The narrow rows of seating allowed some of the bigger gowns to brush up against guest’s legs – a thrilling experience – and trains and trailing hemlines were key motifs (actually, these details were in evidence as a major trend across the whole of LFW.)

As London Fashion Week continues to mix digital and IRL catwalk experiences, there is still something more than magical about the tangible and textured looks of a real live catwalk show, especially when its staged outside in the sunshine. In the weird world of fashion where the fashion pack see outfits that will only be available to buy six months hence, you’d do well to remember the mantra that all good things come to those who wait.

Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton