Creating mini twists requires applying a bit of tension to the hair; well-conditioned hair is less likely to break during the process. Holdsworth suggests saturating your hair with a deep conditioner for 20 to 30 minutes and sealing your hair with a leave-in conditioner once you’ve hopped out of the shower.
Before twisting your hair, you may want to stretch your curls by blow-drying. Though this step is optional, Holdsworth notes that stretching your hair can “help make your twists appear longer and more uniform.” If you opt to blow dry your hair before twisting, Johnson recommends re-applying your leave-in product afterward to bring a little bit of your curl pattern back into your blown-out hair. This will keep your twists from looking and feeling limp.
Now, you’re ready to twist.
Step 1: Separate your hair into four to six sections, depending on how thick your hair is — you should be able to hold each section in one hand. Secure each section with scrunchies, leaving one loose.
Step 2: Within this loose section, grab a smaller segment that is about the width of a pencil. Use a pea-sized amount of braiding gel to define the segment, making the part on your scalp appear crisper.
Step 3: Smooth a pea-sized amount of twisting cream or gel along the entire small section. Holdsworth recommends the Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter because it provides a soft hold and defines curls.
Step 4: Split this segment into two even smaller pieces and begin twisting, wrapping one around the other clockwise. Continue twisting down the length of the hair until you reach the end.
Step 5: Twirl the ends around your finger — in the motion you would use to create a finger coil — until your twist is secure. Repeat this process across your entire head, section by section.
How long do mini twists last?
Mini twists can last up to four weeks. Afterward, the twists can begin to mat and tangle, turning into locs of sorts, explains Jamila Powell, a Florida-based hairstylist and founder of hair-care brand, Naturally Drenched. If you’re planning on keeping your mini twists for a while, great news: You can wash them. Powell recommends adding two to three tablespoons of shampoo to an empty nozzle bottle and diluting with water. “Apply the mixture to the twists and scalp, gently massaging your scalp with your fingertips before rinsing thoroughly with water,” she says. Repeat the same steps for conditioner, then dry your hair with a microfiber towel, which absorbs more water and is gentler on the hair. You can also use a blow dryer for speedy drying.