The premise is the same for professional microneedling but the treatment is more invasive (yes it can draw blood) “as it utilises a much longer needle,” says clinical facialist Kate Kerr.
“With at-home microneedling the main benefit is to increase product penetration,” she says. “Although professional treatments create a micro-channel for effective product penetration, the goal is to initiate trauma deep within the skin,” she says. “This will kick-start the wound-healing cascade, leading to the production of hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin within the body.”
With that in mind, if you have acne scarring or hyperpigmentation, you may want to hold out for a professional appointment.
The benefits of microneedling
1.All-round rejuvenation: Kate is a fan of microneedling for its skin rejuvenating results. “I offer a range of micro-needling treatments in clinic as it’s an extremely effective treatment for the reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, pore size and the collagen stimulation also improves skin texture, as well as improving the appearance of acne scars.”
2.Scarring and pigmentation: According to the experts, microneedling works on all skin types but is especially effective on those who have scarring and pigmentation.
“It can be used in acne treatments to help improve the appearance of scars by breaking up the scar tissue and stimulating the induction of new collagen and elastin,” says Dr Zamani.
“It can also be used on hyperpigmentation because it helps shed the top layer of the skin while also helping the absorption of topical agents that can be used concurrently to help prevent the formation of new pigmentation,” she continues.
3. It works on all skin tones
A myth about microneedling is that the punctures can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in dark skin tones. But when carried out by a professional who isn’t aggressively heavy-handed, and spread out over a couple of sessions, you can avoid causing the irritation that can lead to patches of uneven skin tone.
How to do microneedling at home
- After cleansing apply serum
It will elevate the experience and enhance the results. “To tackle pigmentation, scarring and wrinkles, opt for something with a high-quality retinol or lactic acid in it to boost cell renewal,” says Shaheen, who likes to pair the treatment with her own Skin Design London Retexturing Serum, which is infused with antioxidants.
Opt out of microneedling if you have active acne, rosacea or a skin infection, though.
- Pass the tool over your face
Avoid moving the microneedling tool over your skin in an up and down movement. “Think of your face as a checkerboard,” says Trinny, who recommends making a small cross on one area, repeating once, lift the tool up and move to the next area. You can micro needle your cheeks, forehead neck and chest area.
Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder and medical director of the Adonia Medical Clinic, is quick to point out the hygiene issues of using a dermaroller on your skin, throwing it into a dusty draw overnight and then rolling it over your skin again, potentially transferring bacteria and dirt into the tiny indentations.