At this point, most of us have heard of a purple shampoo, but what about black shampoo? Slowly, we’ve noticed a rise in inky, jet black hair cleansers that promise to upgrade our hair colour, but surely, smearing our strands in a tar-coloured goo is a recipe for disaster? So, how exactly do they work?
It comes back to colour theory. Purple shampoos sit on the opposite side of the colour wheel to orange and yellow, so their presence in a shampoo can help counteract brassiness. Black shampoo works in much the same way on blonde hair, only instead of creating a clean platinum, it lends hair an ashier finish. We spoke to celebrity hair stylist and Jerome Russell Bblonde ambassador, Jason Collier, for all the intel…
What is black shampoo?
“Black shampoo is a specialised product designed to tone down brassiness, neutralise warm tones, and add a deeper, ashy effect to light hair,” explains Jason. “Some formulas are also capable of creating a temporary smoky or darker blonde appearance. Unlike regular shampoos, black shampoo contains dark pigments that subtly alter the tone of blonde hair, helping to achieve a more muted, cool-toned look,” he adds.
How is it different from purple shampoo?
“While both black and purple shampoos are used for toning blonde hair, they serve different purposes. Black shampoo is formulated to create a cooler, deeper, or slightly smoky effect in blonde hair, making it appear less bright or overly platinum. It can be useful for those who feel their blonde is too light or unnatural,” explains Jason.
“On the other hand, purple shampoo is specifically designed to combat yellow and brassy tones, keeping blonde and silver hair bright, fresh, and cool-toned. If the goal is to maintain a vibrant, icy blonde, purple shampoo is the better choice. However, if someone wants a more subdued, ashy blonde, black shampoo may be the preferred option,” he continues.
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Is black shampoo better than purple shampoo?
According to Jason, one isn’t better than the other, it will depend on what effect you want to achieve. “Black shampoo isn’t necessarily better than purple shampoo — it depends on the desired result. If the goal is to maintain a bright, cool blonde shade, purple shampoo is the best choice, as it neutralises unwanted yellow tones without darkening the hair. However, if a slightly darker, ashier, or more muted blonde effect is preferred, black shampoo is a better option,” he says.
“Black shampoo may also be helpful for those who feel their hair is too platinum or want to add more depth to an overly light blonde. Ultimately, the choice depends on whether someone wants to enhance brightness or create a deeper, more balanced tone,” he reveals.
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Will black shampoo stain hair, hands, or showers?
If you’re wondering whether black shampoo is as messy as it sounds, the answer is: potentially. “Generally speaking, since black shampoo contains dark pigments, there is a possibility of staining. However, the Jerome Russell Bblonde Black Ice Toning shampoo has a non-staining formula and can be easily washed off skin and nails, offering precise toning results without residue,” says Jason, but he notes some formulas may have staining effects. “While black shampoo is formulated to work on blonde hair, it may temporarily darken very porous or over-processed hair, so results can vary depending on hair condition,” he warns. As for applying it, “some formulas can stain the hands, so wearing gloves during application may be a good idea to avoid discolouration,” he adds. And, if you’re worried about your bathroom, “like other pigmented shampoos, black shampoo can leave residue in showers or sinks. However, rinsing surfaces immediately after use should help prevent any lasting stains,” reassures Jason.
For more from GLAMOUR’s Senior Beauty Editor, Elle Turner, follow her on Instagram @elleturneruk
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