I can bet that almost all of us have vivid memories of scrubbing at our teenage faces with gritty exfoliating cleansers—the results of which may have put you off exfoliators altogether for a while. But the skincare industry has come a long way since then, and adding one of the best exfoliating cleansers to your arsenal could be the key to improving skin texture, tone, and overall brightness.
“Exfoliating cleansers come in lots of different forms, and their results depend on choosing the right one for your skin,” says Advanced Facialist Mariam Abbas. That’s why it’s crucial to understand how they work, as well as the type of cleanser your skin requires.
Are exfoliating cleansers effective?
“Exfoliating cleansers can be very effective—it really comes down to the type of exfoliating agent, how often you use it, and, most importantly, your skin type. Just like any other skincare product, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution,” explains Abbas.
“Using an exfoliating cleanser is a great way to help shed unwanted skin cells (corneocytes) that haven’t naturally sloughed off. On average, it takes about 28 days for a full skin-cell cycle: cells are born, move up through the layers of the epidermis, mature, and eventually shed from the surface to make way for new ones.
“Sometimes this natural shedding slows down—this could be due to age, a sluggish cell metabolism, an impaired skin barrier from incorrect product use, climate or environmental stress, or sun damage. When that happens, dead cells can build up on the surface, leaving the skin looking dull and tired.
Exfoliating cleansers can help remove that buildup and reveal fresher, brighter-looking skin underneath.”
What’s better, chemical or mechanical exfoliators?
“In my opinion, both chemical and physical exfoliators can work really well. The key is choosing the right exfoliating agent so that the exfoliation is both safe and effective,” stresses Abbas.
“Fruit enzymes are very kind to the skin, yet still highly effective. I often describe them as little Pac-Men that nibble through the protein bonds holding dead skin cells together. AHA acids, on the other hand, can be more aggressive and actually start removing the top layer of the epidermis—which isn’t what we want, as keeping the skin barrier intact is essential. Because of that, it’s important to pay attention to the pH and acid concentration in acid-based exfoliants, as this will tell you how strong and potentially irritating they may be.
“Dull, tired skin cells that are hanging around past their shedding date are held together by protein bonds. Enzymes dissolve those bonds so the cells can fall away. When you use a mechanical scrub, you’re essentially trying to break those bonds through physical force. The problem is that some scrubs use very coarse particles—like sugar, salt, apricot kernels or walnut shells—which can cause micro-tears, inflammation, or even broken capillaries in sensitive skin. They can also weaken the skin barrier over time. It is always worth checking what type of exfoliating particles a product contains.
“There’s also a newer hybrid category of exfoliants that combine gentle physical particles with a fruit enzyme or AHA/ BHA base. For example, Medik8 Pore Refining Scrub contains jojoba grains paired with salicylic and mandelic acid, while Cosmedix Pure Detox Scrub blends physical particles with salicylic acid—making it naturally more suitable for oily or acne-prone skin because of the BHA.”
How often should I use an exfoliating cleanser?
“Most skin types don’t need exfoliating more than once or twice a week,” says Abbas. “Some oilier or more resilient skins may tolerate a gentle exfoliating cleanser a little more often, but it’s still important not to overdo it. On the other hand, sensitised or rosacea-prone skins should be especially cautious, as over-exfoliation can easily trigger irritation or flare-ups. The best approach is to start slowly, see how your skin responds, and adjust from there.”
Shop the best exfoliating cleansers
CeraVe
SA Smoothing Cleanser
CeraVe’s SA cleanser is probably one of the best known exfoliating cleansers out there. The salicylic acid formula targets dry, rough and bumpy skin on both face and body without harsh scrubbing. It removes oil, dirt and makeup whilst dissolving dead skin and pore-clogging impurities to encourage a smoother surface. And, in my experience, it doesn’t leave the skin feeling tight and dry.
ZO Skin
Health Exfoliating Cleanser
“A safe and effective mechanical scrub includes the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish, which uses fine magnesium crystals to buff away dead skin cells without being harsh,” explains Abbas. This is a brilliant option if you have particularly congested skin and want to target surface oil without stripping the skin.
Elemis
Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Wash
If you’ve avoided exfoliating cleansers for fear of upsetting your sensitive skin, this is the cleanser for you. It’s fragrance free and exfoliates very gently whilst removing makeup and impurities, foaming up nicely and never stripping the skin after use. You can expect a brighter, smoother face with no irritation or redness left behind.
SkinCeuticals
Glycolic Renewal Cleanser Gel
I’m yet to meet a SkinCeuticals product my acne-prone skin doesn’t get on with. This brightening formula uses glycolic acid to exfoliate away dead skin cells and reveal a brighter complexion underneath, again without any physical scrubbing that may cause discomfort. Specifically targeted to fight blemishes, it’s a winner for stubborn skin.
Dermalogica
Daily Glycolic Cleanser
Another glycolic acid cleanser, this Dermalogica formula has been a favourite in my routine for a while. It rejuvenates the skin and makes it significantly smoother and less bumpy, which helps to even skin tone too. Added calendula extract and jojoba seed oil prevent the skin from being too stripped, so it works for most skin types.
Beauty of Joseon
Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser
Beauty of Joseon is one of my most used brands of the last few months, and this cleanser is another winner from the K-beauty label. Made with 24% AHA green plum water, the gel formula specifically targets excess oil to exfoliate the skin, which brightens and balances oil production in return. It’s a smooth, comfortable cleanser that is gentle enough for regular use.