As a lifelong nail biter, having acrylics or gel polish on at all times is a non-negotiable for me. Without either, my nails don’t stand a chance at growing. But my inability to give my nails a break hasn’t done them many favours either, with irritation and brittleness becoming increasingly more common. But since discovering HEMA-free polishes, my faith in my monthly mani has been restored.
I’m pretty regimented with my skincare for nails to prevent total devastation on my hands, but even the best regular nail polishes are no match for my anxious habit—I need something strong and pretty much impenetrable to keep them in tact. Only gel will do.
However, regular gel polishes typically include an ingredient known as HEMA (Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) which has been linked to allergic reactions. Ever had burning, itching, redness or swollen skin around your nails? That has likely been caused by a HEMA gel polish.
But fear not—we’re seeing a huge increase in HEMA-free polishes on the market, which is good news for anyone that doesn’t agree with regular gels. Here’s everything you need to know about them according to an expert, as well as the best HEMA-free polishes that are just as strong and shiny as shellac.
What is HEMA?
“HEMA is an ingredient commonly found in gel products which is geared towards increased adhesion and durability,” says Julita Fagan, Nail Artist & Educator at 14 Day Mani.
Although many people will be able to use HEMA products without issue, an allergy can develop at any time, and HEMA has most commonly been found to be the cause. This is because HEMA is a very small molecule that can penetrate the nail plate pretty easily, leading to irritation.
“Allergic reactions are relative to each individual and can be due to a few factors, but are largely a result of improper product curing or curing of gel which has settled on the skin, leading to an irritation,” explains Fagan.
Who should use HEMA-free polishes?
“HEMA-free gel products were heightened in their demand within the nail industry circa 2021 after an increase of allergic reactions to HEMA, specifically by individuals who are not professionally qualified and are applying HEMA products at home,” says Fagan.
This means that those who typically do their nails at home will benefit from HEMA-free polishes, as they are far safer if you have not been properly trained as a nail technician. “As a rule of thumb, when applying products at home on a self-taught basis, I would recommend the use of solely HEMA-free products,” advises Fagan.
However, “HEMA-free gels can be used by anyone, regardless of whether they have experienced a prior reaction to other gel products,” says Fagan. This means that everyone can benefit from making the switch.
How to properly apply HEMA-free polishes
“It is imperative to ensure that you are using a nail lamp complementary to the brand of gel you are using to ensure the proper curing of your gel application. But remember, HEMA-free products are not an overall allergic reaction fix and some individuals may find themselves allergic to this range as well.
“If in doubt, I would always recommend seeking professional advice to determine exactly what gel ingredients are best for you to avoid. Being safe is always best to avoid potential long-term allergens to gel products in their entirety,” says Fagan.
Whether you’ve experienced a serious gel polish allergy, light irritation, or you just want to make a more conscious switch to better protect your nails, HEMA-free polishes offer all the same strength and shine with fewer risks.
Best HEMA-free gel polishes
All of Manucurist’s Green Flash LED polishes are completely monomer free, which means HEMA free too. They’re also extremely easy to remove if you hate having to go the salon for filing.
14 Day Mani
Perfect Prep™ Primer & Builder Gel Polish Duo
It’s not just about the gel colour, but your prep products too. This duo offers HEMA-free primer and builder gel for a proper salon result from home. As the products that are first to touch your nails, this is a precaution well worth taking.
If you’re starting from scratch and want a handy kit to get you going with safe at-home manis, Manucurist’s handy bundle offers exactly that—for the price of two salon manis.