Once described by The New York Times as ‘sort of a cult secret’, Le Labo Santal 33 is now one of the most worn luxury fragrances in the world. Created by revered perfumer Frank Voelkl, the figgy, creamy sandalwood scent has rapidly become ‘everyone’s signature scent’, according to some media outlets. In East London where I lived for nearly six years, you’d struggle to walk down a street in some parts without smelling it as someone incredibly cool walked past you. And this is the crux of its tragic downfall: like many, I eventually reached Santal saturation—in part due to the fact it now reminds me of my ex, with whom I famously (among friends, that is) shared a bottle with during our early relationship (I bought it, he reaped the rewards).
This is precisely when I went looking for a new Le Labo scent. As a brand, it’s one of my fragrance favourites. I think everything the brand does is chic and considered, and any scent that makes into onto its shelves has been meticulously designed (from the notes to the name) to ooze sophistication and style. Luckily, I didn’t have to search for long for my new obsession. Le Labo Thé Noir is now one of my top five fragrances constantly on rotation in my expansive collection.
What does Le Labo Thé Noir 29 smell like?
This woody, slightly smoky scent is perfect for evening wear, with a rich base of tobacco and hay, complemented by middle notes of cedar, vetiver and musk.
Offering a slight touch of fresh lightness, at the top sits fig, bay leaf and bergamot. These notes offer a slightly spicy, refreshing hit, along with a subtle touch of sweetness.
Why I’d recommend this scent
For me, describing perfume isn’t just about discussing which ingredients or notes have been used. As someone with a touch of synesthesia, I experience scents in more of a full-rounded fashion. This means I analyse the feelings and emotions they may evoke, as well as the images and thoughts they can conjure.
The name alone obviously prepares you for this to be a deep, rich evening scent, and smelling it for the first time reaffirmed this for me. It smells like midnight, and if it were a colour it would be deep navy blue, like a clear night sky. Le Labo Thé Noir 29 has a mysterious, alluring feel to it; it’s the kind of perfume I’d wear to go on a nighttime date that spans well into the early hours. It smells expensive and super stylish; it’s the kind of perfume I’d imagine your favourite effortlessly chic fashion designer to sport.
(Image credit: Rebecca Fearn)
It’s therefore undeniably sexy, but not overtly so. It has a quiet confidence in this way. The scent is rich and intense, making it a perfect evening spritz rather than a lighter daytime option. Whenever I wear it at night, I always get comments and/or questions. In fact, when I lent it to a friend to wear on a night out recently, she sent me a voice note ten minutes in saying her male friend had hugged her and then later asked: “what are you wearing? All of those lads over there [his friends] are in love with you because you smell so amazing.” If that’s not high praise…
If you’re looking for a new Le Labo spritz to fall in love with, the brand has plenty to offer. But for a truly unique nighttime scent that’ll have the entire room fixated, I’d recommend Thé Noir 29.