I’ll be honest, since turning 33, I’ve been noticing a few more fine lines starting to appear. While this is by no means a cause for alarm, I have found myself looking for ways to slow down their progression. Botox is, of course, an option for an instant fix; however, before I take that plunge, I’ve made it my mission to explore the best skincare alternatives. While they’re not quite as effective, they could enable me to delay the switch to aesthetics (and the upkeep that comes with them) just that little bit longer.
First, this search led me to collagen serums, and one of my favourite face serums, in particular, Caudalie’s Resveratrol Lift. Then, I did a deep dive into copper peptides, a great option for fighting fine lines and wrinkles, especially for mature skin. But now, there’s a new ingredient making itself known, and it promises to plump skin and fight fine lines like never before: growth factors.
Before slathering these new growth factor serums on my skin, however, I thought it best to get some advice and find out if they live up to their claims. So, I turned to an expert in the form of Dr Nyla Raja, a cosmetic doctor, dermatologist and the founder of Dr Nyla Medispa. Thankfully, she was on hand with plenty of advice, not only on what makes growth factor serums so great at tackling fine lines but also on how to use them effectively in your skincare routine. Here’s what she had to say…
What is a growth factor serum?
“Growth factor serums are skincare products that contain proteins known as growth factors,” says Dr Nyl. “These are naturally occurring substances found in the body that play a key part in promoting cell growth, regeneration and repair. In skincare, the proteins are used to stimulate the skin cells to promote the production of collagen and elastin.”
What are the benefits of using a growth factor serum?
“Typically, growth factors derive from human stem cells or plant stem cells and signal to the skin cells to accelerate the skin’s natural healing process,” Dr Nyla continues.
“The benefits of growth factors include boosting collagen production, brightening the skin, adding hydrating properties, promoting skin renewal, improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and helping to support the skin to look more youthful. They can also help with acne scar healing, sun damage and reducing skin inflammation. This makes them great for sensitive and heightened irritational skin.”
What skin types can benefit from a growth factor serum?
“Growth Factor serums work well for mature skin to support the decline in collagen, minimising fine lines and improving skin elasticity,” said Dr Nyla. “They also benefit dull or uneven skin tones, due to boosting cell turnover which can help brighten the skin and fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation and acne scars.”
However, it’s worth noting that those with highly sensitive skin or allergies to specific ingredients should patch test before applying to the whole face, as although it is considered safe for most skin types, some people may experience irritation from use or overuse.
How should you use a growth factor serum?
“To incorporate growth factors into your skincare routine, they are best applied after cleansing the skin and before moisturising,” says the doctor. “A few drops consistently applied to the area you want to see improvement in, such as the face or neck, either a few times a week or daily (depending on the serum’s strength and the skin’s tolerance level), will determine the best results.”
It’s also worth noting that not all growth factor serums are the same. “The common growth factors used in serums include EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor), which is designed to promote skin cell regeneration and repair damaged skin. VEGF (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor) is used to support better oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin, helping with overall skin health and the regeneration process. And, TGF-B (Transforming Growth Factor-Beta), which is key for wound healing and stimulating collagen synthesis to improve the skin’s elasticity.”
So, by checking what kind of growth factors each serum contains, you can tailor your routine to suit your skin’s needs.
Now that you know all about growth factor serums, you’re probably wondering which ones are the best. Well, I’ve been using them for a few weeks now and I can honestly say, these are the ones that deliver on their skin-smoothing claims…
Shop the best growth factor serums
1. Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum
(Image credit: Cult Beauty)
Allies of Skin growth factor serum has become so popular it’s already sold out multiple times, and previously had a waitlist of over 4000 people wanting to get their hands on it.
In terms of formula, it’s seriously hard working. It contains a blend of peptides alongside a 3% growth factor complex. The texture, however, is still incredibly light with a gel-like consistency that sinks in quickly and leaves skin feeling plump and hydrated. Most importantly, though, after 3-4 weeks of use my fine lines were definitely softer and my skin looked more radiant. Yes, it’s expensive, but keep an eye out for discounts as it’s worth it.
2. The Ordinary GF 15% Solution
(Image credit: Cult Beauty)
For a more affordable option, it doesn’t get much better than The Ordinary’s new GF solution. Remember those different types of growth factors Dr Nyla mentioned above? Well, this serum contains all three, packed with a 15% solution of plant-based EGF, IGF, and TGF peptides.
Once again, this serum is lightweight, feeling almost like water on the skin, with a little added slip that makes it apply smoothly. This is my favourite growth factor serum for days when I want to feel like I’m wearing nothing at all on my skin.
3. BIOEFFECT EGF Serum
(Image credit: Bioeffect)
What most excited me about this serum is that it only contains seven ingredients for maximum purity. Alongside their plant-based epidermal growth factor, you’ll find water, glycerin and barley seed extract for hydration, as well as sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid), and not much else.
It’ll probably come as no surprise then that it applies seamlessly onto the skin and sinks in quickly. After use, my skin looked plump and nourished while my foundation applied much smoother without settling as heavily into my fine lines—a big win!
4. The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF
(Image credit: LookFantastic)
If radiance is your goal, I’d recommend giving The Inkey List’s serum a try. Delivering a two-pronged attack, it combines epidermal growth factors with vitamin C to promote smoother and brighter skin with one easy-to-use serum.
It is worth noting that while I’m a big fan of how this makes my skin look, the growth factors do take a backseat at just 1% alongside a 15% vitamin C solution. It’s for this reason I’d describe this as more of an upgraded vitamin C serum, rather than one designed to specifically target fine lines.
5. Perricone MD Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum
(Image credit: John Lewis)
If, like me, you’re someone who has been researching botox alternatives, you’ll undoubtedly have heard about the benefit of adding retinol to your nighttime skincare routine.
Well, Perricone MD’s growth factor serum makes that even easier, as alongside growth factors, it also contains encapsulated retinol. The two work together to improve skin elasticity and increase cell renewal for a more youthful complexion. I would say this may work better on more mature skin as it aims to tighten, rather than smooth, but it’s still a lovely serum to use no matter your age.
6. Drunk Elephant Protini PowerPeptide Resurf Serum
(Image credit: Cult Beauty)
If you’ve been trying to decide whether you should incorporate peptides or growth factors into your skincare routine, I have great news: the two work excellently in conjunction for high-powered skin-smoothing benefits.
Drunk Elephant’s Resurf Serum is a great example of this as it contains 11 signal peptides and plant-derived growth factors which work together to plump and firm the skin. It also contains lactic acid to brighten and snow mushroom to moisturise, making it great for targeting a multitude of skin concerns.
Of all the serums on this list, this one felt the most hydrating, so it would be great for people with dry or dehydrated skin or those who just love extra nourishing products.