I spent the first 20 years of my life as a nail biter. I also spent the first 20 years of my life doing anything I could to break the habit. In the end, acrylic nail extensions were the only thing to save me, and I can finally rely on gel manicures to keep me in check. However, years of salon appointments have left my nails extremely weak and prone to breaking—but it was only when my nail tech mentioned that my nail shape of choice wasn’t doing me any favours that I considered the problem might not be the polish.
Nail health products and repairing treatments can do a fantastic job at bringing nails back from the brink, and they’ve certainly made the world of difference for me. But once my manicures start to grow out and breaks begin to form, I’m back to square one. I had noticed that certain manis lasted better than others on me, but always chalked it up to my lifestyle and how I’d been caring for them. But truthfully, a certain shape made me far more prone to snags—and since I learned that fact, I can confirm that my long, natural nails have remained in tact.
I spoke to Tinu Bello, A-list Manicurist and Senior Mylee Ambassador, about exactly which shape is best suited to those with weaker nails who want to avoid unnecessary breaks. Plus, she gave me some of her top nail care tips for the strongest possible manicure.
Are there certain nail shapes that are more likely to cause breakage?
“Definitely—nail shape can seriously affect how often you’re dealing with breaks or snags,” confirms Bello. “Sharp corners and long, pointy tips are often the culprits, because they create pressure points that catch on everything from your clothes to keys. Square and coffin (ballerina) shapes are classic examples of this—straight edges and sharp corners mean more opportunities for a break to start.
“Also, more extreme shapes like stilettos basically concentrate all stress on that tiny point, which can make breakage more common if your nails aren’t reinforced. If you love these kind of styles but find your nails are always weak, consider softer shapes or use strengthening products like the Mylee Builder Gel so your natural nails aren’t taking all the hits,” she says.
What is the best nail shape to prevent breakage?
“If we’re talking everyday durability, shapes with rounded edges are your best friend—think round, oval, or squoval (a combo of square + oval). These shapes avoid sharp corners that like to catch on stuff, distributing stress more evenly along the tip. That means you get fewer chips and breaks even on longer nails,” says Bello.
“Personally, I often recommend starting with a rounded shape because it’s just so practical—especially if you’re quite active with your hands. If you want a bit more length and style but still want resilience, squoval is that perfect compromise.”
Nail care tips to prevent breakage
“To help prevent nail breakage, consistency is key. Keeping your nails well-hydrated makes a huge difference, so applying a cuticle oil daily helps keep nails flexible rather than brittle and so less likely to snap. Filing also matters more than people think; always file gently in one direction with a good-quality file to avoid splitting at the edges.
“It’s also worth protecting your hands where you can—wearing gloves for cleaning or washing up helps prevent nails from weakening due to repeated water and chemical exposure. If your nails tend to be naturally soft or prone to snapping, a strengthening treatment or a light gel overlay, such as using Mylee Builder Gel, can add extra support while they grow. And finally, try to be mindful of how you use your hands—avoiding using nails as tools and resisting the urge to pick or peel products off will go a long way in keeping them strong and break-free,” says Bello.
Manucurist
Huile Verte Cuticle Oil
A nourishing cuticle oil “is great to massage in, especially after washing your hands,” says Bello. This one from Manucurist has a handy dropper applicator for precise application.
Sally Hansen
Nail Rehab Strengthener
Keep your nails strong with this paint-on strengthener to defend against breaking and peeling.
Nécessaire
The Hand Cream
A good hand cream is the cherry on top of any nail care routine. This Nécessaire formula is luxurious and hypoallergenic for all skin types.