How to apply cuticle oil, according to a pro nail artist

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How to apply cuticle oil, according to a pro nail artist

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What is cuticle oil?

The first step to understanding how to apply cuticle oil correctly is understanding what it is and how it works. “Cuticle oil is a concentrated blend of nourishing oils designed to hydrate the cuticle area and the nail plate,” explains Jessica. “Think of it as a serum for your nails as it penetrates deeply to soften dry cuticles, improve flexibility and keep the nail matrix healthy. When the cuticle area is hydrated, nails tend to look glossier, smoother and more polished, even without colour.”

Why is cuticle oil important for healthy nails?

In addition to damage that can occur from gel and acrylic nails, brittleness, thinning, peeling and splitting can also be caused by biting, picking and harsh chemicals. “Cuticle oil is one of the simplest but most transformative steps in nail care,” Jessica says. “Regular oiling replenishes lost lipids, improves nail elasticity and helps prevent peeling and splitting. It’s also key for maintaining the skin around the nail, which supports healthy growth and reduces hangnails and irritation.”

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11 best cuticle oils to keep the skin around your nails in tip-top condition

How does cuticle oil work?

So, how does cuticle oil work to improve nail health? “Nails are made of keratin layers, and when those layers become dehydrated, they separate and weaken, leading to peeling and breakage,” the pro nail artist says. “Cuticle oil works by penetrating those layers and reinforcing the nail’s natural lipid barrier, helping it retain moisture and stay flexible. A flexible nail is a strong nail because it bends rather than snaps.” She advises looking for cuticle oils that are rich in jojoba, vitamin E and almond oil – ingredients that are particularly effective as they mimic the nail’s natural oils.

What is the proper way to use cuticle oil?

Jessica advises applying cuticle oil after washing your hands or removing nail polish, “because this is when your nails are most dehydrated”. To properly apply your cuticle oil and maximise the results, she says: “Apply a small drop to each cuticle and gently massage it into the nail and surrounding skin – the massage is key as it increases circulation and supports healthy nail growth.” An important reminder, she adds is to let it fully absorb before applying hand cream or nail polish, “so it doesn’t dilute the products or how your polish adheres”.

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