2025 saw a personalisation boom in fragrance, largely driven by tech and AI, alongside the rise of skincare and aesthetics designed around personal longevity goals. In the coming years, the two could be set to combine with the advent of perfumes created with personal DNA in mind.
A new study published in Nature Communications analysed DNA from 21,000 individuals and aimed to “improve the knowledge of the genetics of human olfactory perception.” It revealed new findings about how we perceive smell and how this is written into our genetics.
The question is: could this kind of information become important in how we perceive, market, and buy perfume in the future? Given the increasing appeal of epigenetics within skincare (which, as a premise, analyses skin at a genetic level and how it’s been affected by factors like UV light and diet, and subsequently allows practitioners to recommend bespoke product and treatment plans for each patient), it could be an ever-rising possibility.
So what exactly did the study reveal, and what do experts think this could tentatively mean for the world of fragrance?
What does the new research show?
I first read news of this study on Olivia Jezler’s Future Of Smell platform, where she asked audiences, “What if your fragrance was designed around your DNA?” and subsequently shared highlights of the research in the accompanying caption.
The findings may not be entirely ‘groundbreaking,’ and they do have certain limitations, but they definitely reveal some very interesting things about how we, as human beings, perceive smells. Notably, the researchers identified 10 regions of our DNA that shape how we perceive scent, of which 7 were previously unidentified. The study suggested scent perception is affected by hormones and that men and women perceive differently. “The study also shows that within each sex, people vary genetically too, meaning no two people smell the world in exactly the same way,” wrote Jezler in her post. “This reveals that part of how we experience scent is written into our DNA,” she added.
Speaking directly to Jezler, she confirmed: “The study shows us that part of how we perceive smell is embedded into our DNA and that small differences in our DNA can change how well we perceive certain smells, specifically smells like cinnamon or pineapple. It also suggests that our ability to perceive odours is not one single ability. You might be very good at identifying one scent, but not another smell, and that can be partly genetic.”
She did, however, note it was worth recognising there were certain limitations within the research, including one key distinction: “The researchers were not testing single aroma molecules. They used scent pens designed to smell like familiar odour objects (fruits, spices, etc.), which are usually made from blends of several aroma compounds. That means the study looks at recognition of overall scent impressions, not responses to isolated molecules. So the genetic links may relate to one key component in the blend, or to broader perception and identification processes.”
Suzy Nightingale, fragrance expert and co-host of On the Scent podcast, agreed that areas of this study were certainly worth our attention. “This study shows more than ever that we’re emotionally attuned to the aromas that surround us,” she begins. “From the study’s findings, it seems clear we are genetically determined to prefer or even recognise certain smells.”
She continues: “It affirms the fact that the majority of women are more aware of smells generally, especially at lower levels. It might even explain why there’s been a boom in stronger formulations (‘intense’, ‘extrait’, and ‘elixir’)… along with the new wave of men becoming interested in fragrance.”
She adds an important caveat, however, pointing to the lack of diversity within the research: “It’s important to remember that cultural heritage and personal significance play a huge part in our preferences, and the study acknowledges that, saying: ‘Another limitation of our study arises from our focus on European individuals. Odour perception can be influenced by cultural background, perhaps a result of differing diets.'”
How could this research change the way we buy fragrance?
The more we discover about the way our skin, hair and bodies work, the more attuned we are to purchasing beauty products that work specifically for us. Bespoke formulations and personalised treatment plans at aesthetic clinics have never been more popular, proving we want beauty that caters to us individually. Just take epigenetics, for example. As mentioned, the premise is that the more we know about our skin at the genetic level, the more we can fine-tune our routine and biohack our way to longevity.
With this in mind, it makes sense that new discoveries about how we smell could lead to changes in how we are sold fragrance. On Jezler’s post, she wrote that this new research “opens the door to hyper-personalisation around our genetic code: a future where fragrances, foods, or even health diagnostics could be designed in line with individual biology.”
So is this a real possibility? And what does this look like specifically for fragrance?
“This kind of research could help brands understand why people react so differently to the same fragrance. For example, some people are naturally less sensitive to certain aroma molecules. If a brand knew that, they could adjust formulas, testing, or recommendations to reduce ‘blind spots’ of the nose,” Jezler tells me.
It’s important to note, however, that this likely won’t mean taking a DNA test at the Selfridges beauty hall to find your perfect perfume. “In the near future, this type of science is more likely to help brands in product development and research rather than leading to buying perfumes based on a DNA test, but I am sure some brands could see this as an opportunity to oversimplify the science and create a marketing around perfume and DNA…”
However this may look, Nightingale agrees there’s certainly a market for it. She says that we are “already seeing a huge rise in personally tailored perfumes, either by taking a quiz online… or those that you can blend or layer to your own preference.” Examples include Algorithmic Perfumery by EveryHuman, an AI system that creates the perfect perfume for you based on a series of in-depth questions.
“This will become an increasingly sophisticated service as technologies adapt to utilising scientific discoveries. I think people love the idea of something that’s exclusively for them and reflects who they are, like a kind of ‘olfactory astrology,'” Nightingale concludes.
It is arguably a stretch to say that the future is based solely on DNA. “It is unlikely that DNA alone could predict your next perfume,” notes Jezler., who reminds us that “fragrance preference is deeply tied to memory, culture, mood, and personal history.”
“Genetics may influence how sensitive you are to certain odours, but it does not fully explain what you enjoy. On top of that, perfume can smell different on each person’s skin due to factors like skin chemistry, pH, and even diet. That part is separate from this study, but it’s another reminder that how we experience a smell is complex.”
Fragrance purchasing based on DNA: are there any drawbacks?
If DNA were to become a bigger part of how perfume is sold to us (and our individual purchasing habits), are there any moral and safety implications to be aware of? As someone wary of AI and its increasing presence within the beauty industry, privacy is a large concern of mine, and the thought of somehow providing DNA to buy a perfume for myself is a little too ‘Black Mirror’ for my liking.
“Privacy is a serious concern,” agrees Jezler. “DNA is highly sensitive information and people may not always know who has access to their genetic data or how it might be used in the future.” With this in mind, should we ever be giving it up in the name of beauty?
Nightingale also worries that, perhaps somewhat ironically, this kind of service could, in fact, lead to a sense of less individuality and self-expression, not more.
“Scientifically backed scent services are fascinating and will no doubt prove a useful starting point to guiding consumers, but I feel none of us wants to be reduced to a profile. There has to be an element of ‘how do I feel, and who do I want to be today?’ in how we choose and use our fragrances. And that may change wildly, day to day. That’s why we’re seeing a sway away from that singular ‘signature scent’ to a whole wardrobe of fragrance, which you can switch up and reach for to match or mask your mood at will.”