If you’re ever on a video call with me, you’ll notice that I fiddle with my hair constantly and regularly apply lip balm. These habitual beauty ticks have been with me for years. I also regularly place my fingers next to my ears and move my skin upwards to create a more lifted appearance. I started doing this in my mid-30s when I noticed that gravity had well and truly come to play. As my skin and I have got older, it isn’t fine lines and wrinkles that bother me, but the lack of firmness and visible sagging that I fixate on daily, hence the DIY facelifts.
That’s why skincare that promises tightening, lifting and better elasticity calls to me. As soon as products like the RéVive Intensité Anti-Gravity Serum, Orveda’s Instant Lifting Effect Mask and 111Skin’s Exosome Face Lift duo land on my desk, they are quickly stashed in my bag, ready to take a place in the bathroom cabinet. I’m not alone in my desire for a more snatched appearance. Just look at last year, which saw the return of the celebrity facelift. Whilst I have no plans to make any drastic appointment bookings, I am curious about how effective the skincare that I am using is. I want to know if tightening creams really work, and whether you can really tighten sagging skin with lifting skincare.
To find out, I spoke with a handful of industry insiders about what causes skin to ‘drop’ and whether lifting skincare actually works.
Why might someone be in the market for lifting skincare?
“People usually reach for lifting skincare when they begin to notice signs of skin laxity,” says Consultant Dermatologist Dr Aiza Jamil. She says the most notable telltale signs are softening of the jawline, deeper nasolabial folds, or a general loss of definition. Each expert agreed that it’s a very common concern for people my age. “In your late 30s, we see the combined effects of collagen slowdown, early hormonal shifts, lifestyle stressors and accumulated sun damage,” explains Jonquille Chantrey, a surgeon and founder of ØNE aesthetic studiø. Kate Kerr, a clinical facialist and founder of Kate Kerr London, says that this is the prime time to suddenly spot the shifts that have slowly been happening for years. “Collagen production has dropped significantly, elastin has reduced (and elastin loss is particularly difficult because we make very little new elastin as adults), cell turnover slows, hormonal changes begin to influence the skin, and lifestyle habits—stress, sleep, UV exposure—show up more readily.”
So, what’s actually going on under the skin’s surface? With age, the cells that make collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid—the three components that give skin its bounce and support—become less active. “The skin produces less of the fibres that keep it springy and lifted,” says Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips. Those fibres are crucial to the structure and shape of our face, so when they become looser, the skin cannot resist the pull of gravity like it used to. “Fat pads in the face begin to shift downwards, and the ligaments that hold them in place loosen,” explains Dr Jamil. “These combined changes create the appearance of sagging or a ‘drop’ in facial contours.”
How does lifting skincare work?
The key to skincare that helps with tightening and lifting is to improve the quality of your skin. You want to boost hydration, support collagen production and strengthen that all-important skin barrier. If all of this is achieved, the skin will look firmer, smoother and more elastic. According to the experts, in order to do this, you need a robust skincare routine that includes retinoids, peptides, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.
“Retinoids promote cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, making them effective for skin firming,” notes Dr Phillips. “Peptides are […] small chains of amino acids that signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, improving elasticity, firmness and hydration. Vitamin C plays a key role in collagen formation and also provides antioxidant protection, helping to defend the skin against environmental factors that break collagen down. Hyaluronic acid does not lift the skin structurally, but it draws water into the surface layers, giving a plumper, more hydrated look which can make the skin appear firmer.”
How reliable is lifting skincare? Can sagging skin ever be firm again?
Whilst a combination of the above ingredients should help improve firmness, smoothness and support, every expert that I spoke to was keen to point out that products have their limits. Lifting skincare restores quality and function to the skin; it will never turn back the clock. It should be best thought of as “supportive rather than transformative,” notes Dr Jamil. No serum or cream will ever be able to “replace facial volume or counteract significant gravitational change”, notes Kerr.
At my age, I have what is considered “early laxity”, which tends to respond well to lifting skincare. For those with “moderate sagging” who want a more pronounced or longer-lasting lift, a combination of skincare and in-clinic treatments—such as radiofrequency, microneedling, collagen-simulating injectables, and non-ablative lasers—can make a significant impact.
“Once sagging is severe, only surgical lifting can restore contour,” says Dr Jamil. The key, then, is early intervention, because as she points out, “it’s much easier to maintain firmness than restore it.”
Expert-approved lifting skincare
SkinCeuticals
A.G.E. Interrupter Ultra Serum
Dr Chantrey recommends this Skinceuticals serum alongside prescription retinoids and high-quality vitamin C formulations for sagging skin. “I have tested this extensively on patients […] and they have been delighted with the outcomes.”
Skinceuticals
C E Ferulic Vitamin C Serum
Arguably the best known vitamin C serum on the planet, almost every expert suggested this. Dr Phillips chose it because it’s powerful and supports collagen production and helps protect the skin from environmental stressors that can accelerate ageing.
Medik8
Crystal Retinal 3 Serum
Kate Kerr says that when it comes to lifting skincare, she would lean toward clinically proven, active formulations. Her chose for a retinoid is Medik8’s iconic Crystal Retinal range that’s incredibly user-friendly, thanks to its laddered system.
Dr.Jart+
Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream
Dr Jamil recommends using a ceramide-based moisturiser to help bolster the skin barrier. This ultra-rich cream from Dr.Jart+ is formulated with five ceramides and ectoin, which further protects the barrier and locks in moisture.
RoC
Multi Correxion Even Tone + Lift Night Cream
Another of Dr Phillip’s favourite lifting products is this from RoC. It’s a cream “that combines firming and brightening benefits, ideal if you are looking to support overall skin quality and tone alongside a subtle lift”.