If you’re relatively new to the world of exfoliation, you’ve probably come up against ”chemical vs mechanical” exfoliants when looking to add one to your skincare routine. Not to mention, there are a slew of different options on the market that may be adding to your overwhelm.
But with a little know-how, it’s actually pretty straightforward. To break down the differences, benefits and who each type best suits, we spoke to a consultant dermatologist. So, without further ado, here’s what you need to know about using chemical and mechanical exfoliators.
What’s the difference between chemical and mechanical exfoliants?
Chemical exfoliants are substances that break down dead skin cells or pore-clogging debris, while mechanical exfoliators incorporate physical particles that “scrub” the skin. In skincare, chemical exfoliants are commonly one of the following types of acids:
- Alpha hydroxy acids AHAs: Include lactic, mandelic, citric and glycolic acid.
- Beta hydroxy acids: Most often salicylic acid in skincare.
- Poly hydroxy acids: Include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
On the other hand mechanical exfoliants, also often referred to as physical exfoliants, are formulas that incorporate particles that you buff into the skin manually. They are usually small, naturally-derived particles that sometimes dissolve, such as jojoba beads. Plastic microbeads are now banned in the UK.
Are chemical exfoliators better than physical scrubs?
This is one of those beauty questions whereby the answer is “it depends”—on you, your skin and its condition. “I wouldn’t necessarily call one type of exfoliation definitively ‘better,’ but rather more or less appropriate depending on the individual,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto, founder of the Self London clinic. “Chemical exfoliants tend to work more evenly and with better predictability; they dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells rather than relying on friction, which often makes them gentler in the long term.”
On the other hand, “Mechanical exfoliation relies on physical particles or tools and can be effective, but the pressure applied is difficult to control. I’ve seen many patients over-scrub, assuming that a ‘deeper clean’ must be better, only to end up with irritation or disrupted skin barriers. Ultimately, the best exfoliation method depends on your skin type, current routine and sensitivity.”
Can you exfoliate sensitive skin?
A common assumption is that sensitive skin types should avoid exfoliation entirely to avoid upsetting or irritation—but that’s not actually the case. However, “It does require a more cautious, personalised approach,” stresses Dr Mahto. “Sensitive or reactive skin benefits from gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid or PHAs used sparingly—sometimes once a week is enough. Avoiding physical scrubs is usually advisable, as they can exacerbate redness and compromise the barrier further.”
Bottom line: “Exfoliation, when done correctly, can actually help sensitive skin by smoothing texture and improving product absorption, but only when the barrier is already healthy,” Dr Mahto says.
How to choose between chemical and physical exfoliants
Torn between the two exfoliators? There is some general guidance that should help you choose your chemical or mechanical exfoliant. “Chemical exfoliants are usually more suitable for those with acne-prone, congested or unevenly textured skin, as they penetrate more predictably and can help regulate cell turnover,” explains Dr Mahto. “BHAs, especially salicylic acid, are particularly helpful for oily or blemish-prone individuals because they can reach deeper into pores. Those with dry or sun-damaged skin often fare better with AHAs, which hydrate while exfoliating.
On the other hand, “Mechanical exfoliants may suit people with robust, non-sensitive skin who enjoy a tactile approach, but they must be used very gently,” Dr Mahto continues. “They’re a big no-no for conditions like rosacea, eczema and active inflammation.”
As well as using gently, the other big consideration is around the particles themselves. “The key is selecting something with smooth, rounded particles rather than sharp, irregular ones,” says Dr Mahto. “Crushed shells, salt and sugar scrubs can create micro-tears, especially when combined with enthusiastic scrubbing. Look instead for jojoba beads or finely milled powders that glide rather than scratch. Pressure matters just as much here, too—gentle, brief movements are far safer than vigorous buffing. Avoid large particles that feel gritty or drag across the skin.”
“I often remind patients that exfoliation should never sting, burn or leave the skin feeling raw as that’s a sign of barrier disruption, not effectiveness,” she concludes. And with that, here are some of our favourite chemical and physical exfoliators to peruse.
