The lights are dim, the music tense, and there’s an indistinguishable murmur of multiple languages. Cue the spotlight, and within moments a model parades in front of you as you sit cross-legged on a white bench—a little too close to the people on either side, who may, or more likely may not, acknowledge your existence. Yes, I’m painting the picture of a fashion show. But you probably knew that—you’ve watched Zoolander, right? Or maybe America’s Next Top Model? Ugly Betty? The list goes on.
But while the traditional catwalk, with all its grandeur and exclusive guest list, may immediately spring to mind, this season we’re witnessing a shake-up. Luxury labels are stepping away from the confines of the catwalk, surprising industry insiders and consumer communities alike with activations that go beyond whitewashed walls and single-file model walks. The result? So far, a resounding success.
It’s this virality that stylist Bee Newham claims makes a social media–first approach a no-brainer for brands. “If you can produce a ‘viral’ online moment which reaches more people (and therefore customers), and it’s cheaper to produce, why wouldn’t you do it?” With results like Gucci’s making a strong case for this anti-show set-up, she’s sure the movement is only going to grow.
“The online world and social media aren’t going anywhere, and they offer brands a way to instantly connect with their customers and fan base,” she adds. “Plus, it’s a way to keep consumers inspired by using different forms of media and approaches to present their brand.”
(Image credit: Diesel Spring/Summer 26 egg hunt)
Over at Diesel, Glenn Martens got playful, inviting everyone to take part in an egg hunt—and not the chocolate kind. Taking all 55 looks to the streets of Milan, the brand offered up a prize for whoever could find them all the fastest. Martens’ message was clear: “this is Diesel for the people, a collection discovered by the public at the same time as everyone else. Fashion is a game and we are playing it: everybody gets to be on the front row”.
To call it a clever consumer activation would be an understatement. As Francesca Gibson, fashion marketing BA lecturer at York St John University shares, “the commercialisation of shows lost brands some of their credibility, and the retail industry knows that they need to offer more than a simple service, so these new creative, artistic activations seem to bridge the gap between ‘show’ and ‘retail’”.
Meanwhile, for those on the inside, it was Sunnei’s live auction that stood out. As an industry commentary on how “fashion is finance, creativity is for sale,” the collaboration with Christie’s posed the question of what actually matters in fashion today. Thought-provoking, theatrical, and unforgettable—for those in the room and for spectators outside.
And so, it begs the question: with the most memorable moments of fashion month happening off the catwalk, what becomes of the traditional fashion show? With industry insiders overexposed and consumers eager to be part of the conversation, it’s clear that brands need to get creative.