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There was a moment—about eight years ago—when dermal filler knew no limits. Lips ballooned until they were splitting the seams (sometimes literally), cheekbones sharpened with every extra ml injected and “filler parties” promised a quick syringe between sips of champagne.
Then the mood began to slowly shift. Kylie Jenner dissolved her filler and chose a softer look—and, predictably, the pendulum swung with her. Influencers across the world followed suit, having their own filler dissolved and documenting the process for followers to witness. “Patients are moving away from anything that looks overly ‘done’ or artificial, and are instead seeking treatments that refresh their appearance while keeping their individuality intact,” says Consultant Dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “Social media has played a part in this as we are much more aware of the risks of overfilling, and the aesthetic is now about subtle enhancement and good skin quality rather than dramatic change.”
And as the overfilled craze continued to draw to a close, a slightly alarming discovery emerged: the so-called temporary fillers weren’t so temporary after all, further denting their appeal as the first-choice tweakment. “Several studies and high-profile papers have highlighted that filler isn’t always broken down within a year or two, and in some cases can remain in the tissues for many years,” says Dr Phillips. “For many people, that permanence feels at odds with the idea of a ‘temporary’ tweak.”
Kylie Jenner at the Met Gala in 2018
(Image credit: Getty Images)
That’s not to say clinics have been short of clients. On the contrary, they’ve been busier than ever—the total UK aesthetics market is estimated at around £3.2 billion in 2024, with expectations to reach £3.6 billion by the end of 2025. The difference, however, lies in what patients are now asking for. “Rather than fillers, I’m seeing a big rise in demand for rejuvenating injectables that focus on skin quality,” explains Dr Phillips. “Treatments like Profhilo and polynucleotides are very popular because they’re hydrating and biostimulatory, which means they stimulate the skin’s own repair mechanisms, boost collagen and elastin, and give a fresher, healthier appearance without altering facial structure.”
At Dr Leah Clinics, founder Dr Leah Totton is seeing the same trend. “Polynucleotides are hugely popular,” she says. “They improve the skin quality on a cellular level and can be used to hydrate the skin, treat dark under-eye circles and fine lines, rejuvenate scars or improve overall texture to give skin a healthy glow. As a regenerative medicine, we are essentially training the skin to act younger, as well as appear younger—allowing for incredible results.”
That being said, this isn’t the end of filler—there’s still a place for them, but clinics and patients alike are increasingly steering towards alternative types that feel more natural and intentionally longer lasting. One of those is fat transfer. “Fat transfer offers a more permanent solution in comparison to dermal fillers,” explain Dr Dan Marsh and Dr Mo Akhavani, founders of The Plastic Surgery Group. “Because fat cells have regenerative properties, they integrate into surrounding tissues where they survive and thrive. This provides a more natural texture and look, with less risk of allergic reaction than foreign substances such as hyaluronic acid dermal fillers.”
The appeal isn’t just in permanence. “Fat transfer is also more effective for restoring facial fullness, particularly in the cheeks and under-eye areas,” the surgeons add. “And because it uses the patient’s own fat, it blends seamlessly. An added benefit is body contouring—removing fat from donor sites like the abdomen or thighs while rejuvenating the face.”
Fillers still have a role when used judiciously, but they’re no longer the default
Dr Derrick Phillips
Surgical treatments are also gaining momentum. The Plastic Surgery Group reports a 25% rise in demand for blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) in the past year alone. “Blepharoplasty is typically the preferable choice for someone with significant under-eye bags or loose skin, because fillers won’t tighten the skin,” they explain. “Surgery removes or repositions the fat, leaving a smoother, more rejuvenated appearance—and for many patients, a longer-lasting solution.”
The shift away from quick fillers is being reinforced not just by consumer preference, but by regulation. In the UK, new laws are set to come into force that will tighten control over who can administer injectable treatments, including fillers. Practitioners will soon be required to hold formal qualifications and register with a national licensing scheme to offer these services legally.
It’s an echo of the larger trend: as the industry shifts toward more considered, skin-first approaches, so too must the standards for who delivers them. Consultations are no longer just about “filling a line”—they’re increasingly holistic. “The emphasis is now less on simply correcting lines or restoring volume, and more on overall skin health, and long-term ageing,” says Dr Phillips. “Consultations have become broader and more personalised, often combining injectables, energy-based treatments and advanced skincare into tailored plans that focus on natural, lasting results.”
For surgeons too, the landscape is evolving. “Both surgical and non-surgical rejuvenations have a place in modern aesthetics, and the best outcomes often come from combining them in the right context for the right patient,” note Dr Marsh and Dr Akhavani.
In other words, filler isn’t over—but it’s definitely been knocked off its pedestal. “Advances in dermatology and regenerative aesthetics mean we now have more tools to rejuvenate the skin and restore volume in different ways,” says Dr Phillips. “Patients are better informed and often more cautious; they want results that look natural, age well, and support long-term skin health. Fillers still have a role when used judiciously, but they’re no longer the default.”
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