Anyone who knows my taste in fragrance associates me with one key note, rose. Don’t get me wrong: as a beauty journalist with a vast perfume collection, my cupboard is full of varying scents—from gourmand vanillas and uplifting fruity concoctions to musky skin scents and confidence-boosting ouds. But if you were to take a look at my all-time favourites, the common pattern would quickly reveal that rose fragrances are my kryptonite.
However, this wasn’t always the case. In fact, at the start of my fragrance journey, I would avoid rose perfumes, and anything floral altogether, like the plague. Instead, I reached for the fool-proof citrusy accords and sweeter, fruity scents. Most rose scents leaned too dated, predictable, and at times, headache-inducing. That is, until I got my hands on the perfume that completely changed the trajectory of my scent journey and forced me to look at rose fragrances through a whole different lens—Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle.
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Portrait Of A Lady Limited Edition
I first sniffed it nearly a decade ago, when my equally fragrance-obsessed friend and I went on a mission to find her a new signature scent. For the record, this was years before I started reviewing fragrances for a living, but that didn’t stop me from obsessing over every counter in a bid to get out of my comfort zone.
What immediately drew me in was the name ‘Portrait of a Lady’. For me, it immediately translated into something sophisticated and elegant, and sure enough, it didn’t take long to convince myself to give it a whiff. I later learnt that it was actually named after the novel by Henry James from 1881.
Having spritzed it on my skin, I was taken aback by its unique profile, while rose was still very much the star of the show (fun fact: it takes no less than 400 roses to make one 100ml bottle), it leaned more grown-up, timeless and luxurious with a dark twist that I didn’t expect—courtesy of added notes of patchouli, sandalwood and incense.
And when I say timeless, I mean it. This year, Portrait of a Lady celebrates its 15th anniversary, and it maintains its firm bestseller status to this day. Created by Dominique Ropion, this standout fragrance is far from a one-dimensional rose perfume.
Its complex nature makes it warm, spicy, soft and punchy all at the same time. It opens with the powerful presence of Turkish rose, with an ever-so-slightly sweet and fresh edge (thanks to the blackcurrant and raspberry notes). As it lingers on the skin, it settles into a warm, spicy and a mysterious blend, which is precisely what makes it so addicting.
What seals the deal for me is its powerhouse longevity. It’s hands down one of my most long-lasting perfumes to date, and one that only becomes better the longer you wear it. To me, this scent is the ultimate confidence booster that instantly makes you feel more “put together”. I’ve worn it to job interviews, first dates, weddings and quite a few important meetings. It’s also a natural compliment magnet: I can think of a handful of times when I was stopped on the street by a stranger asking about my perfume, before eagerly making a note of its name on their phone.
Unlike most florals, my personal opinion is that Portrait of a Lady is one of the rare fragrances that can be embraced by all ages. In fact, I often find myself sharing it with my mum whenever I’m back home visiting. In short, I’d say that it has a similar effect to a red lip; it may be intimidating at first, but it’s timeless enough to become a staple in anyone’s fragrance wardrobe.