In the wake of 2020’s decentralised social movements on the equality of Black Lives and the media outcry that followed, fashion acquirements became noticeably political, with a cumulative interest in black-owned fashion brands.
The landscape shifted, black voices were amplified and as a result, consumers began to diversify their brand roster. Fashion became a catalyst for social change, further evident in the growth of many lesser-known brands. Four years on, we’re vehemently championing the excellence of black designers across the globe and the significance of investing in the black pound.
More often, black-owned brands are awash with a vibrant legacy that transcends ancestral stories and incorporates traditional apparel, whilst some second and third-generation designers have combined black culture with contemporary elements. Additionally, some have sought to fill a gap in the market— from TOVE’s refined silhouettes for the modern woman to Nubian Skin’s innovative approach to nude hosiery, crafted with the dark-skinned customer in mind.
Continue reading for seventeen black-owned brands to follow this summer — you’ll witness textiles and patterns inspired by the rich African Diaspora to modern shaping. It’s fair to say, the evolution and acclaim of black-owned brands is in its infancy and there’s plenty more talent on the horizon.
1. Míe
Míe is a Nigerian brand encompassing full silhouettes and swathed textiles akin to African cloth-wearing (with a sprinkling of languid silhouettes thrown in for good measure) — celebrating the natural fabrications of Africa and lauding the skills of its inhabitants, it’s a refreshing brand advocating for an intersectional approach within the fashion industry.
2. Kai Collective
Adesuwa Ruched Cotton Long Dress – Yellow Ochre
This summer, Kai Collective is rightfully gaining esteem as one of the most coveted independent brands and the highly anticipated release of the Adesuwa dress is perfectly timed for balmy days. Fisayo Longe’s designs have become instantly recognisable for saturated and patterned details that tease the female form and celebrate skin-bearing details.
3. AAKS
You’d be remiss to visit Ghana without checking out one of its many mesmerising open markets showcasing the talent of local artisans and tightly weft raffia bags are amongst the most coveted of offerings. But fret not if a visit to the Gold Coast isn’t on the cards, for Akosua Afriyie-Kumi works with said talented artisans, to produce jolly rattan bags, utilising age-old hand-weaving techniques.
4. Tongoro
French Senegalese designer Sarah Diouf launched Tongoro in 2016 and has partnered with some of the world’s leading e-commerce retailers (namely Net-A-Porter). The brand’s most notable moments include Beyoncé donning the Nari playsuit during her Renaissance tour. Tongoro’s bold prints, swelled sleeves and beguiling shapes speak to traditional African apparel, albeit with a contemporary lilt (courtesy of the refined colour pallet).
5. Nubian Skin
Trailblazer Ade Hassan launched Nubian Skin to fill a much-neglected space in nude shape wear for black women. With a business focused on inclusivity, it’s no wonder Ade extended her line to include breast prostheses in the form of soft bra inserts for mastectomy patients. Nubian Skin’s offerings span deep flesh-toned hosiery and breast tape to loungewear in the continued theme. Her work has rightfully earned her an MBE at Buckingham Palace.
6. Sunday Archives
Scarlet Linen Top + Maxi Skirt
Natural fabrications, feminine silhouettes and fabric in excess encapsulate Sunday Archives, however, founder Trey’s SS24 release speaks to high-octane glamour. Its sweeping styles are awash with a captivating metallic sheen.
7. Tove
Friends Camille Perry and Holly Wright founded TOVE with a liberated approach towards femininity. TOVE’s pieces exude a teasing yet mature femininity with figure-enhancing columned styles in typically muted colour ways.
8. Half Baked London
Black British swimwear brands are few and far between but with Half Baked’s expert cuts you needn’t look elsewhere. Kim Fraser founded Half Baked after piquing a gap for attainably priced, well-fitting swimsuits with an uncompromising emphasis on quality. The limited collection includes two refined bikini offerings and a high-leg swimsuit featuring a scooped neckline.
9. We Are Kin
Arch Cami Mini — We Are Kin
We Are Kin’s blueprint mirrors clean-cut minimalism and founder Ngoni Chikwenengere advocates for sustainable practices both in and outside the studio. Ngoni’s designs speak to the sartorialist seeking refinement and cultivating a sense of personal style. Although classic, each piece features an elevated touch — from the spliced midi skirt to the decorative lace-up feature on the Arch mini dress.
10. Diotoma
Rachel Scott weaves inspiration from her West Indian descent into her work, thus juxtaposing Western trends with Jamaican fashion heroes. With themes of perforated knitwear, and looped stitching, Diotima evokes the aesthetic of a tropical paradise and the string vests which are fervently celebrated across the Island as an expression of liberation and fruitful living.
11. Jakke
East London designer Nina Hopkins founded Jakke in 2015 and it promptly gained esteem for its ethical faux fur coats, later awarded a PETA-approved “Best Faux Fur Brand” accreditation. We’d be amiss to miss out on its apparel, which is equally as exceptional. From full-skirted dresses to jaunty letter motifs, the jovial, tongue-in-cheek theme persists.
12. Maison Bent
Shanna Bent is an alumnus of Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, where she first honed her design skills. Inspired by her grandparents’ immigration from Jamaica, she designs easy-wearing, versatile pieces in block colours to withstand trends. Look no further for your co-ordinate needs.
13. Roop
Baby Furoshiki Bag in Bronze
Roop was conceived from Natasha Fernandes Anjo’s adoration of handcrafted and vintage fashion. The accessories brand crafts its whimsical handbags from remnant and organic-derived fabrications, in line with its ethical ethos. It’s most renowned for the plush furoshiki bag — a model utilising a traditional Japanese folding technique, resulting in the most darling, playful and organic shapes that best complement occasion wear.
14. Oríré
Although Oríré is a brand in its infancy, its distinguished styles are guaranteed to sweep you off your feet in actuality and metaphorically speaking. Its spirited colour ways span tropical hues from yellow to terracotta and many of its fashions incorporate overstated occasion wear that’s perpetuated as a proud mark of West African culture.
15. Andrea Iyamah
Andrea Dumebi Iyamah’s Nigerian heritage heavily inspires her artistic practice — from the swathed silhouettes to euphoric colourways. Inspired by various art forms since her formative years, she went on to hone her design skills, resulting in the creation of her brand at seventeen. The current archive reflects bold, unapologetic expression. It’s bound to appease lovers of feminine profiles and directional shapes.
16. Carla Diogo
Lana Sleeveless Shirt — Carla Diogo
Bristolian designer and seamstress extraordinaire Carla Diogo launched her eponymous line with a capsule of linen skirting and shirts. She’s since dedicated her line to producing organic-rich cotton shirting (featuring playfully exaggerated scalloped collars) and scrunchies comprising fabric off-cuts. Carla Diogo shirts are individually made-to-order with the option of custom sizing.
17. MATEO
14-Karat Gold Pearl Earrings
Autodidactic jewellery designer Matthew Harris draws upon contemporary art, in particular, abstract linework when pencilling his designs for Mateo. His portfolio consists of minimalist, milky drop pearls, and diminutive earrings juxtaposed with opulent diamonds and semi-precious gemstones. The result is hushed glamour — refined and statement in equal measure.