Our skin has an uncanny knack of letting us know how it’s feeling, whether it’s dry and craving a face mask, or flaring up with whiteheads and blocked pores.
The trick, of course, is to know how to interpret the signs and feed skin exactly what it needs. The trouble is, most of us react too fast, throwing products at our faces before taking the time to work out what is actually going on.
A sudden influx of multiple active ingredients and quick changes to your skincare routine can actually cause even more problems from inflammation to sensitivity. For instance, if you tend to ramp up your routine with hardcore acids and topical treatments whenever you detect a whitehead, it might be time to take a step back.
Ahead, everything you need to know about whiteheads – what they are, how to know if your skin is purging or simply reacting to a new product by breaking out, and how to treat them.
What are whiteheads?
Whiteheads are a milder form of acne. Whiteheads look like small bumps sticking up on your skin. They are white or yellowish in appearance.
What is the difference between whiteheads and blackheads?
A whitehead is also a comedone – a.k.a a blackhead – it just happens to be different in colour. “Whiteheads, also known as closed comedones, are small, raised bumps with a white or flesh-coloured top,” says advanced aesthetics practitioner Dr Dev Patel. “They occur when a hair follicle becomes clogged with oil, dead skin cells or bacteria, and the pore remains closed.”
A blackhead may look like a fleck of dirt has become trapped in the pore but it is also a blockage. “They develop when the pore opens and the plug inside is exposed to air causing it to oxidise and darken to create a black or brown surface,” says Dr Patel.
What is the biggest cause of whiteheads?
The biggest cause of whiteheads is congested pores. “All spots are caused when the sebaceous glands in the skin produce too much oil or sebum, which then mixes with dead skin cells and gets trapped in our pores,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “The bacteria that cause spots thrive on this material and activate our immune systems, triggering a cascade of inflammation that results in blemishes, including white whiteheads.”
Certain skincare products can also get trapped in our pores, which is why flare-ups can be fuelled if you try a new product. “This is often the case with people who use richer creams or wear heavier makeup and is much more common in those with unnecessarily overcomplicated skincare routines”, says Dr Justine.
How can I tell if my skin is purging or breaking out?
Purging, which has been dubbed “retinoid uglies”, is known as a sort of coming of age phase as your skin adjusts to the powerful ingredient and often results in excessively red skin and peeling. “In the shorter term, however, this accelerated shedding or exfoliation of dead skin cells may trigger more blackheads or breakouts,” says Dr Kluk and take the form of “blackheads or small skin-coloured bumps just under the surface of the skin. Any increase in breakouts tends to settle with continued use.”